16 Arbuthnot Road, Central Tel: 2868 0625 Open: Monday-Saturday noon-3pm, 6.30pm-midnight, Sunday 11am-4pm Cuisine: Organic Price: About HK$420 per person without drinks and before adding service charge. Ambience: It was quiet at first - when I arrived at 8pm, only a few other tables were occupied. But within an hour, the long, narrow room, decorated in black and white, was full and the place was livelier. I was seated initially at a table with hard plastic chairs in the centre of the restaurant; I asked to be moved to one of the more comfortable tables with padded chairs. Pros: Servers are accommodating. Cons: The hot dishes were served tepid. Some of the dish descriptions make them sound more flavourful than they were. My main course of arugula and beet fettuccini with spanner crab ragout with basil, lemon and garlic (HK$160, above) had heavy, pasty pasta and the sauce was bland. My guest's starter of grilled scallops over a salad of field greens and spring onions with chilli pepper and lime leaf vinaigrette (HK$120) was unexciting. Recommended dishes: I enjoyed my starter of lemon zest and herb creme fraiche poached Pacific oysters on red bell pepper, fennel and spinach blini (which was spelled as 'belini', making me wonder if I was going to be served a cocktail; HK$110). The flavours went well together, and the red pepper didn't overwhelm. Pan-seared striploin with caramel red wine sauce, roasted kipfler potatoes and lemon scented green beans would have been better if served hot - perhaps the cooks should let the diner slice the meat (which was cooked to a perfect medium rare), rather than doing it in the kitchen. Dessert of caramelised apple tower (HK$80) was a success: it had sauteed diced apples, a thin caramelised apple chip, crunchy grated apples that resembled latkes (fried potato pancakes) and vanilla gelato. What else? Most of the ingredients are organic; those that are not are indicated with 'N.or'. There's even a short list of organic wines. Beo stands for 'beautifully organic'.