What's in a name? Most aspects of De Nom ('By Name'), one of Sydney's most exclusive, opulent and indulgent watering holes, are discreet. It's well hidden yet some famous names have been linked to the classy venue. Mick Jagger opened it in 2006; Axl Rose sang an impromptu version of Little Wing there last year; Snoop Dogg, James Blunt and Paris Hilton have also popped in for a drink and US oil baron Brandon Davis is a fan of the place's monthly high-stakes poker games.
So what's it like? Essentially De Nom is a sitting room from a Palace of Versailles fantasy. Ablaze in gold and velvet, each piece of furniture has been chosen to replicate the Louis XIV era's opulence. Soft lighting emanates from a beautiful chandelier nestled in a silk-lined vaulted ceiling and there are plenty of mirrors so Sydney's sexy set can admire themselves. Think 24-carat gold gilded wall panelling, heavily framed paintings, bartenders in blazers and bowties and wait staff dressed like Marie-Antoinette.
How does it fit in the Sydney scene? Unless you are a regular on the city's club circuit, you could be forgiven for never having heard of De Nom. It's a small space, popular within a defined group of in-the-knows for its impromptu jam sessions and international celebrities who drop in for a glass of fine Barossa shiraz.
What's behind the bar? Cocktails galore - the venue is regularly used to launch the likes of Stoli Elite vodka, so the bartenders are knowledgeable and skilful. There is an extensive wine list and plenty of old-school liqueurs and aperitifs, including absinthe.
Any quirks? Curiously, the most hype concerns not the inflated price list but the water closets, which have welcomed actress Nicole Kidman, Pearl Jam's Eddie Vedder and friends. Women get to perch on a Louis XIV-style chair and, when the flush button is pressed, Old Masters-style portraits rise to reveal swan-shaped taps. Men can aim at a faux Rembrandt. There are rumours of a pressure switch in the American burr-walnut bookcase that gives access to a private space rarely seen by mere mortals but which can be secured by members, who pay A$10,000 (HK$75,000) a year.
What's the bottom line? Getting in doesn't have a price tag; it's more who you know or how you look. Once inside be prepared to pay upwards of A$14 for a glass of wine and A$18 for a cocktail.