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Detours: Chesapeake Bay

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Judith Ritter

With battle lines drawn and the US election on the horizon, it's no wonder Washington politicos are running for weekend shelter on chic and serene Chesapeake Bay. Towns such as Cambridge, Easton and St Michaels have long been favourites of the US capital's power elite.

The area has also become popular for side trips for visitors to DC. The 6.5km Chesapeake Bay Bridge stretches over the bay and leads out of the city to the wetlands, beaches, forest and quaint towns of Maryland's Eastern Shore, where visitors can find a mix of history, outdoor adventure, yachting and stylish shopping and dining.

Local estate agents like to say the area rivals New York's Hamptons and Massachusetts' elegant Nantucket, but the Eastern Shore is more laid-back, and although it's full of Washington heavy hitters, it's pleasantly lacking in ostentatious excess. The mix of rough-around-the-edges crabbers and oystermen with Washington's financiers and powerbrokers is jokingly described by one local as 'rednecks and bluebloods'.

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A weekend excursion starts in Talbot County's historic port town of St Michaels. Residents are proud of their history as 'the town that fooled the British', when, during the war of 1812, citizens under siege hung lanterns high in the tops of trees so British guns would overshoot their targets. St Michaels is also known for its famous residents, vice president Dick Cheney (also famous for overshooting his target), who bought a US$2.6 million estate and former Iraq warmonger Donald Rumsfeld, now master of a 1.8-hectare, US$1.5 million, 19th-century waterfront home. Except for the occasional convoy of black SUVs and the buzz of helicopters, the White House honchos are well out of sight. Visitors can enjoy a secret-service-free main street with upscale boutiques selling everything from fashion to contemporary art.

One interesting way to see the sights is by horse-drawn carriage; another is an historic skipjack sailing cruise on the harbour, which is dotted with expensive yachts. The highlight for maritime aficionados is St Michaels' Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. There's not only a collection of antique boats, but also a working boatyard where visitors can chat with boat builders and learn about their craft.

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After a cold drink, a burger and an earful of local gossip at the Carpenter Street Saloon, head out towards Easton. Although it's surrounded by nature and home to the 162-hectare Audubon centre, many visitors come from the capital for its gourmet restaurants. The town itself, a model of Federal and Victorian architecture, is a holiday hideout for Washington escapees who crave quiet but still want the big-city dining to which they are accustomed.

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