France, Italy, Spain and Portugal all have their own versions of cured ham, but most connoisseurs agree the best comes from the Iberian Peninsula. The Spanish and Portuguese each argue that their jamon Iberico is superior. The Portuguese have the original strains of the pata negra, or black-hoofed pigs, but the Spanish popularised the breed and dominate the export market. The finest ham is jamon Iberico de bellota, which comes from pigs fed solely on acorns. The meat is very rich and intense and, contrary to popular belief, it's not that salty. The best drink to pair with jamon Iberico needs to respect the meaty richness and should shine without being the focus. Glenmorangie Lasanta Sherry Cask Finish, Scotland It may seem predictable to marry two Iberians, but the combination really works. Sherry is, of course, made in Spain, and the casks used to age the fortified wine are used to age the Glenmorangie whisky, adding sweetness, nuttiness and some aldehyde character that really sets up the jamon's richness. The fattier the slices of jamon, the better the delicate and complex spirit match will be. There's a seamless link between the sweet meat succulence and the sweet spirit, and the aged meat intensity is further enhanced by the sweet caramel notes in the Glenmorangie. Their intensities are also matched. Available for HK$680 from Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888) Katnook Estate Coonawarra Cabernet 2004, Coonawarra, South Australia There is very limited space for expansion in the Coonawarra region, which means you come across old, established names such as Katnook over and over again. The winery has been making this classic cabernet for almost three decades. It has lots of lovely dark berries and supporting oak. The berry flavours are varied and complex, and further exaggerated by the jamon's savoury gaminess and saltiness. The balanced oak in the wine gives the jamon more width and precision. It's a tasty pairing, and when the jamon is eaten in a sandwich, crusty bread rounds out the combination by introducing much-needed textural lightness and volume richness. Available for HK$205 from Watson's (tel: 2530 5002) Prunotto Barbera d'Alba 2006, Piedmonte, Italy This wine can last the distance from the time you take the first slice of jamon until it's carved all the way down to the bone. It has hardly any discernable oak character. The wine's pure and gentle fruit leaves the palate refreshed and ready for the next slice of delicious ham. The acidity in the wine balances the meat's richness and fattiness. Available for HK$112 from Maxxium (tel: 2845 5995)
