Dine at your leisure on traditional fare in Coloane
The sleepy fishing island of Coloane, with its cobbled lanes and Macanese architecture, is an oasis away from the glitzy casinos. Fast-paced Hongkongers have for decades been getting away from it all by sitting on the rocks on the beach with a fishing pole as the lapping waves soothe away their worries.
Macau's hotel and casino business has brought much revitalisation over the past five years and this has reached the small island of Coloane where rents have doubled, if not tripled, due to its proximity to the Venetian Macao casino.
But Coloane has prospered, retaining its unique heritage of open-front stores selling hardware and groceries. Whitewashed facades and Portuguese mosaics pepper the streets to fit in with the traditional Chinese Hakka houses.
Twisting through the lanes and just off the square of St Francis Xavier Chapel is Restaurante Espaco Lisboa where Portuguese fare can be found. A Macanese favourite, the restaurant is run by executive chef Antonio Coelho who blends rustic flavours. Walking into the restaurant gives a sense of homeliness and comfort beneath high ceilings with exposed beams and cheery whitewashed walls to the side. The small second-floor balcony is fringed with flowers as diners overlook the cobbled streets and take in the historical architecture. Many customers are old friends of the chef.
Try the set lunch or dinner, often peppered with fresh Portuguese ingredients. For starters, the fresh clams steamed with garlic and cilantro are simple yet hearty. Or try the Portuguese ham and sausages with strong Portuguese cheese and cantaloupe to cut through the taste. A mellow Portuguese red perfectly complements this latter dish.
'Food is an experience,' said Coelho, who has lived in Macau for more than 10 years. 'I want my customers to really enjoy themselves.'
For the main course, try the fish in a white sauce baked with garlic and potatoes in a traditional clay pot. The slices of fish melt in your mouth and the creamy garlic white sauce goes well with the potatoes.
African Chicken, a Macanese favourite, is also a hit with customers and the spicy garlic flavours blend well. For more simple and traditional fare, try the Portuguese-style steak which is grilled to perfection.
Portuguese desserts are traditionally egg-based. Coelho serves a mean rice pudding, but try the pistachio cake with fruit jam - it is an innovative mix of sweetness and flair.
