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LG/F Eaton Hotel Hong Kong,  380 Nathan Road, Kowloon
Tel: 2710 1010
Open: noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight
Cuisine: Contemporary Japanese.
Price: About HK$450 per person without drinks and before adding 10 per cent service charge.  Ambience: Understated elegance for an izakaya. The 2,200-sq ft restaurant is in subtle shades of dark brown and ivory, and built with marble, granite, wood, glass and bamboo. It's divided into five areas including a sushi bar, a small tempura bar and a semi-private dining room.
Pros: Yagura is ideal for intimate gatherings.  Servers are knowledgeable.
Cons: Our servers were too eager to clear our plates - even while we were still eating. Lighting is a little  low. The  bathrooms are not  in the restaurant and they're quite far away. The Chinmi 5 (five-appetiser selection, HK$78, above left) disappointed because the selections were ordinary. The Wagyu beef roll (HK$148, right)  had   too many ingredients  that overwhelmed the beef  taste and the melt-in-the-mouth effect of  the meat. The Yat Tung Heen roll (Peking duck, cucumber and hoisin sauce and wrapped in an egg sheet, HK$58) - named after the hotel's Chinese restaurant - had good texture but the taste was nothing special.
Recommended dishes: Head chef Takayuki Nagano   has created a comprehensive menu  blending  traditional cooking techniques with modern food trends.  Our favourite  sushi selection was the deliciously crunchy eel roll (HK$78). Negima chicken and leek yakitori  (HK$48) comes in pairs of larger than usual size, and was lightly grilled. We ordered two traditional sushi varieties  and we weren't disappointed as both the yellowtail (HK$68 for two pieces) and live prawns (HK$108 for two pieces) were fresh and meaty,  although the prawns weren't as sweet as others we've tried. Kakiage noodle (HK$55) was a delight, with fried vegetable fritters and a delicious seafood broth. A main course of peppered tuna steak with wasabi soy sauce ($208) was moist and perfectly seared.
What else? Yagura stocks  more than  25 varieties of sakes and shochus, including the private label blend of  Hidden Oasis Yagura (HK$168 for 300ml, HK$348 per bottle), which is brewed exclusively by Nakano in Handa City, Nagoya.



Yagura Japanese Restaurant