Sugar curing is one of the oldest means of preserving food. It is commonly used in Nordic countries for dishes such as gravlax. The raw salmon of the dish is buried overnight in a curing mixture of two-thirds sugar and one-third salt. The sugar and salt 'cook' the fish and impart a subtle sweetness. The cured salmon can then be cooked further for added flavour. Any salad pairs well with sugar-cured salmon, but I prefer Greek salad because it offers slightly more robust flavours. Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2007, South Australia If you think you've read about this wine in this column before, you'd be right - it's one of the best around, regardless of price. It's delicious on its own or with a wide range of foods. In my home, it's usually on the table with classic Cantonese dishes, but it's also a perfect match with grilled sugar-cured salmon and Greek salad. The caramel note from the grilled fish gives it a robust richness that links up perfectly with the fruit-rich viognier. The salad components play with the wine, twisting and turning the flavour from light in the case of the feta cheese to deep earthiness with the olives. The crescendo of the pairing comes as the succulent fish jostles for a lasting impression with the long, lingering fruit notes of the wine. Available for HK$105 from Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108) Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough, New Zealand If the salmon were neither chargrilled nor sugar-cured, pairing it with this wine would be a disaster, but the fruit-driven Marlborough pinot is perfect with grilled or sugar-cured salmon and Greek salad - especially if the cut of fish is from its fatty belly. The brown note produced by grilling the fish goes well with the gentle oak and red fruits in the wine, and the pinot's light texture caresses the fish. The salad is filled with savoury notes from the feta to the olives and onions, and these match up seamlessly with the wine and the charred fish. Serve the wine cooler and the salad warmer than usual. Available for HK$330 from Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888) Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage 2003, Champagne, France This Moet is one of the Champagne region's warmest recent vintages, and the result is a heady wine with plenty of personality. The Moet bubbles have gone somewhat unconventionally soft and silky, making for a delicious but head-turningly creamy wine. The richness and new-found velvetiness make the champagne a perfect match with salt-cured salmon and Greek salad. The 2003 vintage is seamlessly crafted and sets up a delicious platform for the charred fish; the champagne's gentle gas is as smooth as perfectly cooked fish. The savoury salad, especially the olives, picks up the wine's yeasty notes and age characteristics. Available for HK$598 from Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888)
