Sugar curing is one of the oldest means of preserving food. It is commonly used in Nordic countries for dishes such as gravlax. The raw salmon of the dish is buried overnight in a curing mixture of two-thirds sugar and one-third salt. The sugar and salt 'cook' the fish and impart a subtle sweetness.
The cured salmon can then be cooked further for added flavour. Any salad pairs well with sugar-cured salmon, but I prefer Greek salad because it offers slightly more robust flavours.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2007, South Australia
If you think you've read about this wine in this column before, you'd be right - it's one of the best around, regardless of price. It's delicious on its own or with a wide range of foods. In my home, it's usually on the table with classic Cantonese dishes, but it's also a perfect match with grilled sugar-cured salmon and Greek salad. The caramel note from the grilled fish gives it a robust richness that links up perfectly with the fruit-rich viognier. The salad components play with the wine, twisting and turning the flavour from light in the case of the feta cheese to deep earthiness with the olives. The crescendo of the pairing comes as the succulent fish jostles for a lasting impression with the long, lingering fruit notes of the wine.
Available for HK$105 from Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108)
Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2006, Marlborough, New Zealand