With mid-autumn just around the corner, the days of hot, steamy summer weather are numbered. Families will be out this weekend to admire the perfectly round, beautiful mid-autumn moon symbolised by heavy, sweet mooncakes. But perhaps the humble little baby yam is a more appropriate indicator of the start of autumn: the seasonal tuber is at its best right now. Compared to the large taro, the small ones are nuttier and have a more glutinous texture; they become starchier and more floury as they grow bigger. The perfect wine with baby taro can take it through the sweet note or equally successfully will use the taro as a base for piling on savoury notes and fruit richness. Dow's 10-Year-Old Tawny Port, Portugal This is a clever match: together, the food and wine pairing dynamics are changed completely. The humble yet delicious taro takes on a new personality from savoury to indulgently sweet. The tawny port adopts the taro's earthy tones, using it to extend the port richness. The viscous taro links up with the silky port and forms a seamless and caressing partnership. Available for HK$160 from Link's Concept (tel: 2802 2818) Quinta dos Quatro Ventos 2005, Duoro, Portugal This wine is new to Hong Kong but will be familiar to anyone who's studied the offerings at Macau's wine shops. This rich, powerful wine is a perfect match with baby taro. The wine's mid-weight savouriness is married well into the taro's nutty platform and make this almost a meal in itself. Available for HK$250 from Cosmowine Limited, tel: 2206 0333 Shaw & Smith Shiraz 2005, Adelaide Hills, South Australia This Adelaide Hills shiraz is one of the Australian wine industry's saving graces. The wine is fruit-driven and the oak is modest. It is the perfect match with baby taro. The wine's lifted fruit and savoury notes are furthered by the taro nuttiness. The creamy, sticky taro binds together with the wine's grainy tannins, giving a long-lasting, velvety mouthful. Available for HK$264 from Kedington (tel: 2898 9323)