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All the tea in China

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SCMP Reporter

Matching wine with cuisine is an ancient art; every night, in restaurants around the world, recommendations are being made by maitre d's and sommeliers as to which vino complements the veal, which plonk goes with the pork loin.

At the Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou, an even more ancient custom is being enacted. The hotel has brought in its own tea sommelier, Winnie Wu, who will match the hotel's nearly 170 varieties with dishes at Cantonese restaurant Lai Heen.

'Pairing teas with Cantonese dishes is just as much an art as pairing food and wine in western cultures has been for many centuries,' says Wu. 'It's a delightful gastronomic experience and part of the overall enjoyment of your meal.'

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The Ritz-Carlton believes a talented guide is needed to steer diners through the different textures and flavours imbued in the various varieties of this much-loved drink - from the delicate and mellow flavours of green and white teas, to the subtle scents of jasmine, chrysanthemum and rose.

'While there are basic rules of logic - lighter teas go well with lighter foods and stronger teas with heavier foods - the depth and range of flavours is almost endless, and subtlety and balance play a huge part in the pairing choices,' says Wu.

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She suggests tangerine tea should be drunk along with prawn and marinated pork belly with garlic sauce as its subtlety complements the lightness of the pork and the tea helps cut through the dish's fatty texture. Wok-fried Wagyu beef tenderloin in a black pepper sauce is best suited to the slightly more robust Dongding Oolong tea, says Wu.

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