LETTERS from readers, good or bad, are always welcome. This one came from an unhappy diner. The reader from Mid-Levels used to be a customer of Bacchus Taverna. Not anymore. In three concise paragraphs Mr Bentley vented his displeasure from a recent experience. He and two friends went to Bacchus in early January for a good Greek meal. What they found had nothing in common with previous experience. ''The portions were miserly. The moussaka . . . the restaurant's nouvelle cuisine interpretation.'' The dips were insipid and the muzak, he regarded as ''background noise''. For what they ordered and got, the expense was considerable. He wasn't completely negative, praising the service. But he promised not to return for what, in his opinion, was ''a watered down, Hong Kong version of Mediterranean cooking''. I decided it was time for a re-visit and found that things at Bacchus have changed indeed. What debuted as a Greek restaurant run by Australians was really more infamous for plate-smashing. In late December, owner Kim Murphy changed the concept. Taverna was dropped from the name, out went the plate-smashing and a new menu of Mediterranean cuisine was introduced. The changes came after months of listening to customers and colleagues and include a new pastry chef and culinary consultant-cum-executive chef. The plate-throwing that lured many put others off. The informality of a traditional taverna, where diners go after dinner, to drink, sing and raise hell, didn't work in the up-market eatery. Though Bacchus Taverna was never completely out of mind, it was usually out of my way. The food never lived up to what I had eaten in Europe or the ethnic neighbourhoods of Detroit or Chicago. And the outbursts of gaiety and song from plate-throwing waiters-turned-chorus line always detracted from conversation and the ever-excellent spinach and cheese pie. But my recent visit with two friends had little in common with Mr Bentley's experience. The service was professional, the prices and portions were right - and we had a good time. On a Saturday evening, the dining room was 90 per cent full and the music - a combination of Betty Carter, acoustic guitar, soft jazz and rock played at such a level that didn't require shouting - was far more memorable than muzak. But now food is the focus, with some of the Greek favourites remaining on the menu. The chef clearly understands that anything made with filo pastry refuses to do encores in the oven or (horrors) microwave. Dishes such as spinach and cheese pie and baklava are stellar because of their freshness. The rack of lamb with garlic, peppers and shallots arrived as ordered, medium rare, but the rich demi-grace got in the way of the natural flavour. A major improvement is the choice of chewy whole grain bread. Gone from the wine list are all but three Greek wines. The price range of the Australian, Italian and French selections - from $220 to the $350 - makes drinking affordable. An Italian Brume Di Monte (around $270), a cabernet and merlot blend, was a good choice and held up well with the mixed appetisers, seafood, chicken and lamb. One appetiser, the bell pepper tartlet with goat cheese ($60), arrived in a tougher-than-nails crust. Its excellent goat cheese wanted some herbs and more contrast in textures. But there were no complaints with the spinach cheese pie. The fresh greens inpastry looked wildly rich but weren't. Asparagus, snow peas, artichokes, beans and even the humble gai laan was sandwiched with pastry and lashed with a whisper of hollandaise and herbed onions. It got better with every bite and defied being boring. Not so with the Bacchus vegetable plate. Those grilled greens suffocated with an overkill of breadcrumbs and parmesan. Our forks made several search-and-destroy missions on the excellent char-grilled octopus appetiser, drizzled with a sassy citrus dressing on a bed of lettuce. Blanching and pickling in red wine vinegar had solved the toughness problem, and flash-grillingnot only produced fine results, but a hint of smoky flavour. Next time, we'll ask for an entree portion. No surprises with the spring chicken, skilfully grilled and flavoured with lemon, oven-dried tomato and toasted walnuts. The richer-the-dessert-the-better philosophy makes baklava a natural choice. And this one didn't disappoint. Instead of the usual serving that looks like a brick, the chef eases any guilt of this calorific nightmare by slicing it into three polite slivers, a handsome way to show off the almonds, pistachios and walnuts. A miser's hand with sugar gave the right balance of rose water flavour and sweetness. The pastry was just buttery enough and textbook crisp. The date pudding needs a complete overhaul. Overly sweet, too soft and moulded, instead of scooped, it arrived with a dollop of King Island double cream. It surely deserves something better. While Bacchus' version of creme brulee doesn't jiggle or bounce like a baked custard, it remains true to the stirred variety. Its texture is similar to creme anglaise. Another surprise is the cheesecake, is a stand-in for a cheese or almond tart, not the wickedly rich cake that is so addictive. Dinner for three, including a bottle of wine, cost $1,452. I'd go back. The service was professional and the new menu gives everyone the choice to eat light or heavy, including vegetarians. For them, Bacchus' emphasis on vegetables makes this a haven. The changes afoot in the kitchen and the restructuring of thedining room are positive steps. Bacchus is now on track. For Mr Bentley of Mid-Levels, it deserves another look. Or better, a new introduction. Bacchus, Hop Hing Centre Basement, 8-12 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai. Tel: 529-9032. Hours: Noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily
