The fig is a plant of contrasts. The fruit itself - often described in poems as being 'ripe', 'lush', 'honeyed' and with phrases not usually used in food columns of family newspapers - is a symbol of sexuality and fertility. The leaves, however, symbolise modesty: they are used to cover the 'naughty bits' of statues and paintings.
Archaeological digs have shown that the fig is one of the oldest cultivated plants. The fruit is nutritious and high in fibre (it's been used as a laxative), antioxidants and certain minerals and vitamins. When ripe, the flesh is soft, sweet and luscious.
When picking figs, check carefully for wasps and ants, which also like to eat the fruit. Fresh figs are delicious when eaten with savoury foods such as sharp cheese or pan-fried foie gras, or tossed in a lemony dressing with salad greens, toasted walnuts and crumbled blue cheese. Slightly under-ripe fruit can be poached in flavoured sugar syrup (add a vanilla bean and wide strips of lemon or orange peel) or made into jams and chutneys. For a simple dessert, quarter ripe figs - cutting to (but not through) the stem - drizzle lightly with honey and bake for about 10 minutes. Serve with thick yogurt.
Figs are also available dried, which are very different from the fresh fruit. The best are not too desiccated. The texture should be chewy rather than tender. They can be re-hydrated by poaching in simmering water, then pureed or chopped and used in cookies (think of Fig Newtons) and other baked products. They are delicious in tagines and stews, or roasted with chicken and root vegetables.
A simple snack can be made by wrapping re-hydrated figs (halved, if they're large) in bacon, securing with a toothpick, then grilling until the bacon is crisp.