Jeff Varasano describes his quest for making the supreme pizza as 'a bit of an obsession'. Most others would describe it as a lot more than that: judging by his website, Jeff Varasano's Famous New York Pizza Recipe ( www.varasanos.com/PizzaRecipe.htm ), he seems more like a wild-eyed fanatic. In his decade-long attempt to replicate the pizzas he loved in New York (he now lives in Atlanta, Georgia), he had the brilliant/scary idea to use garden shears to cut off the safety switch that stopped him opening the door of the oven when it was on its self-cleaning cycle - when the oven superheats to above 425 degrees Celsius - the ideal temperature (Varasano says) for cooking pizzas with a beautifully blistered crust in under two minutes. He writes, 'Use this section with caution: i.e. no lawyers please. I'm just telling you what I did.' Varasano's blog is basic: one long page of text with charts, recipes, analysis of ingredients, photos of the process and, of course, his 'pies' (as pizzas are called in New York).