The Best of Singapore Cooking By Mrs Leong Yee Soo. Available for HK$165 from Metro Books (tel: 2196 8770). Late food writer and cooking instructor Leong Yee Soo was considered an authority on Singaporean cuisine, and published several books on the subject. Her first cookbook, The Best of Singapore Cooking, shows off the wide-ranging cuisine influenced by the various cultures that have been long established in the Lion City: Malay, Chinese, Indian and British. The book has recipes for hawker dishes (char kway teow, popiah, satay), nonya specialities (bean curd with meatball soup, salted Chinese mustard and duck soup) and other favourites such as fish head curry, bakuteh, curry puffs, curry crab, laksa, chilli cockles and yu sang (the colourful raw fish 'salad' traditionally eaten at Lunar New Year). As with many older cookbooks (it was published in 1989), the food styling can be pretty dreadful, and Leong occasionally calls for monosodium glutamate (although in modest amounts; it can be omitted). Her instructions are clear and concise, but it's obvious she expected her readers to be familiar with the dishes.