62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai Tel: 2866 3444 Open: 1/F Living Room, 11am-2am (Sunday until 11pm); 2/F restaurant noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm (Sunday until 10pm) Cuisine: Modern British. Price: HK$400 per person without drinks and before adding the service charge. Ambience: The food's terrific but the venue itself is the intangible extra garnish. The former Woo Cheong Pawn Shop is the jewel of the Urban Renewal Authority's renovations. The late 19th century building has been refitted for a first floor casual bar called The Living Room, and an equally relaxed second-floor dining room and roof garden. Pros: The balcony with its overhead fan is great for alfresco drinks as the weather cools down and traffic levels off in the evening. The prices may seem steep but most dishes are large enough to share. For example, if you order the roasted sea bass (HK$220) you literally get the whole fish. Cons: Although the dining room has high ceilings and is spacious, some tables too are close together. Recommended dishes: The something old refashioned into something new theme extends to the hearty menu, which is not for calorie counting waifs. We threw the diet plan onto the tram tracks, opting for appetisers of roast bone marrow (HK$95) and pan roasted sardines and shrimp (HK$115). The gelatinous marrow (in the bone) is rich but mellow, spiked by a little accompanying horseradish cream. Just as sinful were the fresh sardines and shrimp swimming in melted garlic parsley butter. What wouldn't taste good in that? For mains, the winning roast game hen with thyme stuffing (HK$225, above) came with gravy, Yorkshire pudding, potatoes and vegetables and is enough to feed two. The steak-like char-grilled swordfish (HK$220) was the most nouveau thing we tried, served on three sticks of roasted parsnip with a summery dash of avocado puree and a salsa of tomatoes, onion and peas. For dessert, the peach melba with ice cream and raspberries (HK$75) was presented in a brandy snap basket that was tasty but a bit hard on the teeth. What else? First-time visitors may be confused by the maze-like entrance. Try the side elevator on Tai Wong Street East. The Sunday roast is a popular item. Headed by Welsh chef David Tamlyn, The Pawn is from the people who brought you The Press Room and Classified.