M at the Fringe - Attention to detail sets this eatery apart

1/F South Block, 2 Lower Albert Road, Central, 2877 4000

FARE Fine European with hints of North Africa and the Middle East. AMBIENCE Entering through a discreetly signed stairway off the street fuels anticipation. Instead of a perfunctory greeting and scuffle for menus, the reception by general manager Elisabeth Harbitz is warm and truly welcoming. This professional and sincere welcome, a neglected art in many an establishment, immediately put us at our ease. While the muted lighting, huge blowsy bowls of flowers and quirky cello chairs suggest a stylish informality, the immaculate tablecloths and carefully selected chinaware, silverware and glassware, and hand-written menus, speak of impeccable attention to detail. COST Three courses, HK$1,200 for two, with a glass of wine each. WHO TO BRING Me, or the beautiful person you see daily in the lift but haven't dared ask out. Or your partner of two or 20 years. TURN-ONS Service is swift and imaginative. Sharing a salad starter with my non-meat-eating companion, I was rescued from vegetarian austerity by the waiter's suggestion of a generous side order of anchovies. The salad, Young & Fresh & Warm (unlike my date!), was a light and tasty offering of poached baby vegetables with soft-boiled egg and mustard, caper and olive sauce. The ample portion of magnificently crispy suckling pig came with a Ballymaloe colcannon and lashings of apple compote. The trio of berries with home-made coconut, raspberry and mango sorbets was perfect after the rich and generous main courses, while the Turkish coffee with fragrant Turkish delight added an exotic note. Important details - butter served at a spreadable temperature, and no stinting on accompaniments such as mustards and sauces - were not lost on us. TURN-OFFS While the rich sformato offered a delicious celeriac mousse filled with mushrooms and accompanied by a tower of rocket, it was the only vegetarian option among the main courses. DRINKS Fine range of wines from old and new worlds, also wide selection of dessert wines and by-the-glass options.