62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai, 2866 3444 FARE British gastropub. AMBIENCE Cosy, laid-back and chatty, this three-storey restaurant and bar is located in a converted 19th-century building which used to house the Wo Cheong Pawn shop. Some of the building's original features have been retained, while fittings such as patterned wallpaper, soft leather couches and wooden floors evoke an English country pub. COST HK$400 each for three courses without drinks. WHO TO BRING Anyone who cares about preserving Hong Kong's past. TURN-ONS Having previously sampled items from the bar menu and being generally disappointed, we were not sure what to expect from the full dining experience. However, the meal was a pleasure. The roast bone marrow was simple but delicious with the spicy horseradish cream on the side adding a dash of flavour to the subtle taste of the marrow. The roast chicken with lemon and thyme (for two, HK$420) was tender and juicy inside with a fresh and crispy skin. The humble cabbage - loathed by children across Britain who are served it over-boiled and soggy at school dinners - in the side order of cabbage and bacon was transformed into magnificence: the dish was sweet, smoky, and luxuriously buttery. The brandy snaps, white peach, raspberries and vanilla ice cream was a dream, the white peaches delicate slices of heaven. TURN-OFFS While the goat's cheese, wild leaf, beetroot and pomegranate salad was a delight to look at, the goat's cheese was as much rind as pate. DRINKS A well-chosen selection of wine, beer and cocktails and an excellent range of single malt whiskeys.