6/F Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, Harbour City, Kowloon, 2113 0808 FARE Asian and western. AMBIENCE A vast space divided by shelves of bottled foods, the bar, glass and wood dividing walls, pillars and carved screens. There is a long open kitchen and large windows with views of the harbour. COST HK$500 each without drinks. WHO TO BRING Fussy friends who need a varied selection of food and drink to keep everyone happy. TURN-ONS The blue crab and avocado starter was attractively presented, with a touch of lemon lifting the full taste of the crab meat and the creamy avocado offering a contrasting texture. The Italian seafood soup was rich and delicious, and contained a generous helping of mussels, clams, fish, scallop and prawns. TURN-OFFS The menu is divided into Asian and western for each stage of a meal. This gives numerous choices, and being located in a hotel the restaurant surely aims to please varied tastes, but the result is that neither the western nor Asian dishes were outstanding. The cubes of tenderloin in wasabi with asparagus, a signature dish, was a disaster of chewy meat and an insipid dressing that was both creamy and powdery. DRINKS Vast wine menu, covering all the world's big wine-producing regions, from HK$350 a bottle. Plenty by the glass. Staff are adept at offering recommendations.