W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon station, Kowloon Tel: 3717 2299 Open: 6.30am-11pm Cuisine: Modern international. Price: About HK$450 for a three-course dinner without drinks and before adding service charge. Ambience: As you'd expect from a W boutique hotel, its version of a hotel coffee shop is not a standard version of a hotel coffee shop. The hostess takes first-time diners on a tour past the huge communal table (it can be booked for larger groups) that has a great view of the gorgeous open kitchen, and then into the main dining room. There are loads of interesting design elements, from the art installations to the knick-knacks in the cabinets. On the night of our visit, the diners were a mix of hip young tourists to families with small children to a large group of men drinking expensive wines. Pros: The menu is enticing and it was difficult to choose our dishes. Cons: The chicken confit with kipfler potatoes (HK$230) sounded too interesting to pass up, and I hoped the preparation method of poaching it in fat would solve the usual problem of dry breast meat. The half spring chicken, served in a tagine with a cinnamon stick and olives, was less dry than usual, but the seasonings didn't penetrate the meat and it didn't taste any different from plain roast chicken except the skin wasn't crispy. Butterscotch pudding with ginger whipped cream (HK$75) was a soft, creamy, heavy version, and it became dull after just a few bites. Also on the plate were a large sphere of spun sugar that was chewy rather than delicately crisp and a square of slivered almond-studded caramelised sugar that was too thick. The hostess removed the dessert from the bill after seeing we didn't eat much of it. Wines are marked up but if you order by-the-glass you'll pay a lot more. Recommended dishes: Crisp lobster tacos with green papaya and fresh mint (HK$145, above) was just what a starter should be: great flavours and textures and light enough so we had room for our main course. The taco shells were crunchy and greaseless and the filling had a nice jolt of spice. My guest loved his starter of sweet and sour prawn kebabs (HK$145) which had a deliciously complex sauce that tasted of tamarind and honey. He cleaned his plate of the barbecued chicken burger with Chiang Mai spices (HK$155), which was huge, meaty and moist, and accompanied by excellent fries. The dessert of coconut panna cotta was served with a lavender jelly that, fortunately, smelled stronger than it tasted. It came with light meringues, to be eaten - we assumed - with the bowl of melted chocolate. What else? If you want a more upscale experience, head to the hotel's Fire restaurant.