THE ART OF painting with enamel was developed in the 15th century, but it wasn't until 1632 that Frenchman Jean Toutin refined the process and made an impact on the watchmaking industry.
Previously, craftsmen would outline their subject matter with gold wire (called cloisonne enamelling) or etch small crevices into the metal surface (champleve enamelling) before filling these with enamel. The wire or grooves acted as barriers and prevented the paints from seeping into each other.
But Toutin applied the enamel directly on the surface, so it looked as vibrant as paint applied to canvas. This allowed for a huge improvement in the decorative field - and the creation of detailed miniature portraits.
The process was tedious, but Toutin's works proved immensely popular, first in France and then throughout Europe. Of particular interest were his highly elaborate enamelled watch cases - King Louis XIII and his court were Toutin's biggest supporters, commissioning the creation of almost all members of the royal family as enamelled miniatures.
With the advent of the pocket watch, these mini masterpieces soon grew out of favour. Old timekeeping devices had been worn suspended like a jewel on a necklace, with the works of art visible for all to see. Pocket watches were tucked away, defeating any decorative value. Watches became practical instruments of timekeeping, but when the pocket watch made way for the wristwatch, elaborate pieces were once again sought after.
More than 370 years later, watchmakers are turning to the creation of decorated horological pieces in an effort to attach an air of exclusivity and prestige to their name. Some manufacturers have resorted to the ancient medium of enamel while others have used hand engravings to create magic on their tiny canvas.
Swiss watchmaker Antoine Preziuso's line of artistic watches, Hommage, are odes to several culturally iconic figures. The family of four collection is hand engraved in gold and pays tribute to music legend Bob Marley, revolutionary hero Che Guevara and the Asian symbols of all things great - the tiger and dragon.