What is it? Even paradise can pale sometimes. The designer desert island and the secluded ski resort seem oh so passe when you discover a hideaway so holistic in its outlook it leaves guests feeling like several billion rupiah. Welcome to Como Shambhala, formerly the Begawan Giri retreat but still the last word in radiant health.
Sounds too new-agey for me. Don't worry. It might have been rebranded and expanded but Como Shambhala has remained true to the Begawan Giri mantra of 'a new you', achieved through a be-good-to-yourself approach that leaves you floating on the incense that seems to permeate Ubud - the most spiritual of Balinese towns.
A new me? I'll believe it when I see it. The individual constitution is the focus at Como Shambhala (one of nine worldwide 'centres of well-being' in Christina Ong's Como Group). The property spills down a spectacularly verdant valley to the sacred River Ayung and invites the guest, however reluctant, to exercise. Trekking, yoga, mountain-biking, Pilates, tai chi, qi gong, rock climbing on a natural wall and aquatherapy are among the pursuits available. More serious practitioners might benefit from the yoga retreats, led by world-renowned masters, and its adventure challenge weeks, which involve trekking, volcano climbing and white-water rafting.
Healthy eating? Yes but boot camp this is not, with dinner rations of exquisite raw tuna, seaweed and linguine, or seared kingfish followed by chocolate 'three ways': sorbet, cake and mousse. And yes, the wine list is extensive, challenging the guest's self-discipline.
And the accommodation? Delightful, be they garden rooms, entire residencies or retreat villas with private infinity pools (above). And if anything isn't perfectly to your liking, your personal assistant - a butler by any other name - will be there posthaste to fix it.
What's the bottom line? Enriching the spirit is not something you can expect on the cheap. Rates start at US$275 a night for a Garden Room, including breakfast, transfers and all activities but excluding tax and service.