Nestled in an area somewhat similar to Shek O on the southeast corner of Hong Kong Island, Australia's Mornington Peninsula is a popular summer playground for visitors and residents of Victoria state. The peninsula is as much loved for its bay beaches as it is for its wines. The brisk ocean air draws in the holidaymakers but it is also a factor in the district's vineyard success. Due to the cool breezes, Mornington's grapes ripen more slowly than those in other Victorian wine districts, often several weeks later than those in the Yarra Valley, which is positioned on warmer inland slopes. Slower growing seasons allow a grape's delicate and subtle fruit aromas to evolve.
There are about 50 wineries on the Mornington Peninsula but most are small because land costs are high. Suitable sites for vineyards are scarce as the peninsula's bracing ocean temperatures can wreak havoc with a vine's ripening process. Also, many properties are hobby-wineries, small boutique estates established in recent years by successful professionals from nearby Melbourne. You will not find the large land-holdings of popular pioneer regions, such as South Australia's Barossa Valley or New South Wales' Hunter Valley. Only Stonier has a sizeable holding in the region, of some 100 hectares.
Not surprisingly, this area excels at cool-climate grape varieties such as chardonnay, pinot gris and pinot noir. Though shiraz typically per forms better in warmer sites, a few producers manage to coax some arresting examples of this grape from the soil - when the weather co-operates. In years such as 2008, when most of Australia faced a hot and early vintage, cooler southern Victorian districts, such as Mornington Peninsula, thrived, with restrained, well-structured wines.
Like many Mornington producers, Kooyong Winery's vineyards are planted facing north to capture as much sunlight as possible. The property is about 80km south of Melbourne and is positioned next to the Devilbend nature reserve, which is home to many wild water fowl. The name Kooyong means, 'where wild fowl gather'. The Kooyong Estate Chardonnay 2006 offers restrained, elegant fruit with subtle balance and a creamy palate. Citrus-accented fruit finishes with a hint of lightly roasted nuts and vanilla; it is easy to drink without over-whelming the palate.
Debra Meiburg is a Master of Wine.
