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If you venture off the cycle trail towards the Breakfast Creek pub be 'super-careful', a helpful passer-by says. 'You might never want to leave.'

Pub and cafe stops are just a couple of the hazards a cyclist faces in new, trendy Brisbane. To call Queensland's state capital hip, cultured and cutting-edge might sound odd to those who knew the city in its darker days but that is what it has become. The Brisbane of old was a steamy, seedy river port and despite its balmy climate, outdoor dining, walking and cycling were virtually unknown.

But now, all this has changed.

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Confident and sophisticated with streetscapes of palm trees and canvas sails, and enough outdoor life and street cafes to keep its privileged citizens constantly diverted, the Australian city has at last found its own pedal-power identity.

The Goodwill Bridge is a much-used pedestrian and cyclist bridge built across the Brisbane River. And new underground bus lanes make traversing the city a breeze - and the roads safer for two-wheeled travel.

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The city's river ferry terminals all feature special bike racks and are connected to cycle paths, and the Brisbane City Council has committed to spending more than A$100 million (HK$530 million) on cycleway upgrades.

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