Lamb hotpot has plenty of deliciously meaty gravy with lots of ginger and bean paste to give the bubbling dish richness and stickiness. Dried beancurd skins are softened in the simmering hotpot and soak up much of the mouth-watering gravy. The best wine with braised lamb hotpot needs to have lots of richness and some assertive tannins to balance what could be an overwhelming amount of sticky meat gluten. Too much oak will leave the roof of your mouth feeling dry and coarse. Good quality oak, especially with some char, will extend the dish while adding another spectrum. Wines with fine perfumed fruitiness will also shine through the aromatic steam. Wantirna Estate Lily Pinot Noir 2005/2006, Yarra Valley, Australia The Yarra Valley near Melbourne was originally used to grow pinot noir, although lately the region has been making award-winning shiraz as well. This Wantirna pinot, filled with sexy aromatics, is wonderfully fruity and deliciously rich. It's more fruity than oaky, which is a good thing. It is the perfect match with braised lamb hotpot. The red fruit richness melts into the sweet, gamey lamb, while the crisp acidity and subtle oak slides under the bean paste and the gravy-soaked beancurd skin's nuttiness. The finish is refreshing, with the red fruit pinot sitting alongside the dish's stickiness. Available for HK$354 from Kedington Wines (tel: 2898 9323) Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005, Tuscany, Italy This is one of the most deluxe of the Italian vintages - it is rated as highly as classic 1997 Tuscan wines, although that year was even more concentrated and lured many winemakers into extracting just a little more than they should. The 2005s are more elegant but equally concentrated, with an edge of lively and refreshing acidity. This is a perfect match with braised lamb hotpot. The compatible richness makes them line up seamlessly. The wine's edgy acidity and rich fruit vie for both a supporting and leading role with the lamb. Thoroughly delicious. No need to decant this wine; it will blossom slowly in the glass. Available for HK$218 from Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108) Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Napa Valley, California 2005 Bordeaux has Lafite and Latour, while the Napa Valley has Far Niente and Opus One. This Far Niente Cabernet has an edge of elegance, directness and nerviness compared to Opus One. It is precisely these linear characters that make it a perfect match with the lamb. The slightly charred oak gives the dish an extended platform while the grainy tannins, which, by the way, are perfectly ripe and do not intrude, bring balance to the sticky meat glutens and cleanse the palate. This wine is expensive, but you should taste it at least once in your lifetime. Available for HK$1,176 from Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8121)
