'Ralph Lauren never compromised on quality and was interested in pushing ideas as far as possible. I remember the time we spent trying to perfect his idea for matte, distressed crocodile. There was only shiny crocodile available then, so we had to work with the tannery to try new processes. He was incredibly innovative, in his ideas and execution. Another time, in a meeting, he asked for a boot to fit tighter and asked 'Why can't we use stretch leather?' to which the shoe designer replied, 'Not until God invents stretch cows'.'

At Ralph Lauren she met now long-time friend and fellow designer Tory Burch, and Reed Krakoff, president and creative director of Coach. But mastering the design and production side was not enough. Kotur Marin soon moved to Gap, where she helped start the accessories division of Old Navy.

'I wanted to learn the business side and had always admired Gap chief executive Mickey Drexler, so I jumped at the opportunity to start up a brand under his leadership. In 1994, Wal-Mart was thriving, but there were no design-driven mass-market retailers. I thought this was such a big opportunity and such a challenge to create a brand and product, at discount prices that looked high quality and served a broad general population. The launch was one of the most successful in history and after eight years there, I was overseeing children and baby divisions as well.'

In January 2000, Kotur Marin married American financier Todd Marin and relocated to Hong Kong. After moving here, Burch asked Kotur Marin to help set up her lifestyle brand which ranges from shoes, handbags and knitwear to umbrellas, hats and flip-flops. Reconnecting with Gap factories, Kotur Marin learnt the importance of sourcing, cultivating strong relationships with suppliers that would later provide the foundations of her own handbag line.

After stumbling on a trove of vintage brocades made in 1960s Hong Kong for the European couture market, Kotur Marin was inspired to design a limited-edition line of chic brocade clutches under her maiden name which launched in 2004. 'I started working out of my apartment in Hong Kong with only one style and one customer. Requests from US retailers led me to broaden the scope of my materials and styles. Being close to my manufacturing base has been pivotal in creating my own business. Much of the creativity and design comes from working with available materials, and working directly with the sample makers.'

Kotur has since expanded to include exotics, shells, metals and minaudieres now stocked at international fashion stores Bergdorf Goodman and Scoop in New York, Browns in London and Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong. But a successful handbag range doesn't mean she always gets it right. 'A few years ago, when I was on a charity benefit committee in New York, Vera Wang was a sponsor and offered to dress the committee. I went to her showroom to borrow a dress, and somehow the dress that was delivered was the same style but must have been a runway sample. I didn't notice until a half hour before the event when I put it on and it was a foot too long. In my panic to get out the door, I taped Styrofoam blocks to the bottom of my shoes and shuffled around looking awkward, off balance and unrecognisably tall.'

When putting together her own outfits, comfort is key. According to Kotur Marin, great tailoring is the key to good design. 'When I'm wearing the right thing, my posture and demeanour change. Most of the time, I don't bother to dress up - I wear a black shirt, slim pants, a cuff and Alaia heels. It's a monastic approach, like an invisible suit - so I can focus on my kids, work, art and my surroundings.'