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Susan Jung

Level 4, Pacific Place,  88 Queensway, Admiralty
Tel: 2111 1197
Open: noon-midnight
Cuisine: Italian
Price: About HK$700 for a three-course dinner without drinks and before adding the service charge.
Ambience: It's a huge space with high ceilings and plate glass windows overlooking the garden terrace, Queensway and the driveway along Pacific Place. The restaurant seemed all the more vast because on a breezy weeknight just after the holidays, the staff far outnumbered the customers.
Pros: It's expensive, but the quality of the food is very good. We liked all the dishes we ordered.
Cons: The staff were too attentive at first, until we made it clear we could navigate the menu and wine list on our own. Although the place was practically empty, we were seated next to the doors to the terrace, which became annoying  when a group of smokers went outside - the staff kept going in and out and letting in the cold night-time air. Our first wine selection  was out of stock and the waiter suggested a bottle by the same producer that cost about HK$400 more, rather than recommending one at about the same price point. The breads were varied and interesting but had spent too long  in the warmer and the edges of the slices were dry.
Recommended dishes: Tomato jelly with prawns, scallops, sprouts, salad, fruit and black salt (above, HK$280) was a lovely combination (although the fruit was unnecessary). The glistening, pale pink tomato jelly was refreshing and light and the perfectly cooked seafood made the appetiser substantial enough to satisfy. I was surprised at my guest's choice of fruits of the sea with light polenta and mushrooms (HK$180) because he usually dislikes polenta, but he cleaned his plate. Pappardelle with duck ragout (HK$200), with fresh pasta and a richly flavoured sauce, shows the kitchen can execute classic Italian dishes as well as  more modern ones. Because it was a secondi-sized portion (rather than a main course), my guest was still hungry and after finishing the pasta, ordered the risotto with Trevisian radicchio, speck and tallegio cheese (HK$200). The kitchen performed brilliantly with the unexpected order, refusing to rush out the risotto before it was ready, and serving it only when the grains of rice were properly cooked to al dente and coated with the rich, creamy sauce punctuated by salty bites of the speck. My main course of roast pigeon with apple, spinach and red onion jam was expensive at HK$330, but the meat was stellar: tender and moist. The meal ended well with desserts of 'hot chocolate and cold coconut' (HK$110) and the more refreshing pineapple with lime and mint granita (HK$110).
What else? Domani was opened by El Grande Holdings,  which also operates the Grappa's chain. The consultant chef is Mauro Uliassi  who has two Michelin stars with his restaurant, Uliassi, in Senigallia.



Domani