Out and about
The northern districts of Macau, near the border crossing with Zhuhai, reward exploration yet are often ignored by visitors from Hong Kong, who prefer the glitzy casinos, cobbled streets and pastel churches located further south. Mong Ha, which means 'dreaming of Amoy', is one such locality.
Amoy is the old name for Xiamen, in Fujian province. The name was a nostalgic reference to a home town used by Fujianese migrant boat-builders who settled in Macau soon after the Portuguese arrived, in the 1550s. Mong Ha was developed as a garden suburb during the 1920s and a few old villas remain, along with a number of mature trees, which lend shade and character to the streetscape.
The hill at Mong Ha is surmounted by an interesting, little-visited fort built in 1851 - more than two centuries after most of Macau's other fortifications were finished. Completely rebuilt between 1864 and 1866, it is surrounded by mature gardens and offers a superb vantage point over the city. Just below the fort, the Lin Fong Temple dates in part from the 1570s. Imperial Commissioner Lin Tse-hsu, appointed to stamp out the illicit opium trade, stayed here when he visited the city in 1839. Shaded by venerable banyan trees, the tranquil courtyards are a world away from modern Macau's constant noise and crowds. A boulder carved with the Portuguese crest can be seen on a scrap of wasteground next to the temple. Along with numerous others, now lost to development, this stone was carved to delineate Portuguese boundary claims in the late 1840s.
South of the Lin Fong Temple, Avenida Coronel do Mesquita was named after Nicolau de Mesquita (left), a locally born army officer and 19th century Macanese hero who committed suicide in 1880. Located on this road, the Kun Lam Temple has a small stone table that was the spot where, in 1844, the first Sino-American friendship treaty was signed. A stainless-steel chain fence has been installed around the table, which spoils the antique atmosphere somewhat. It is popular with mainland tour groups, though few stay longer than a few minutes, which helps keep the temple courtyards quiet and peaceful.
Riquexo ('rickshaw'), one of Macau's few authentic Macanese restaurants, has been in operation for many years on Avenida de Sidonio Pais, near the junction of Avenida da Coronel Mesquita. Immaculately coiffed proprietress Aida de Jesus, now well into her 90s, serves behind the counter most days. Minchi - the Macanese national dish - is a deliciously filling combination of beef and pork mince braised with garlic and onions and served with rice and a fried egg. It is not to be missed.