Barbecued ribs come in many different flavourings. Some are smoky and sweet, while others are garlicky and not so 'saucy'. Hong Kong-style ribs are usually basted with honey or maltose, in much the same way as char siu (barbecued pork). Ribs tend to be a tender cut, with lots of fat. Barbecued ribs should always have a good degree of char or caramelisation. The juicy meat goes best with rich reds. I usually advocate fruit-driven wines in this column but this is probably one instance when a woody wine works just as well, assuming the winemaker used a fruity wine in the first place. The charred parts of the barbecued ribs have the ability to absorb or disguise oak flavours so when you pair an oaky red with burnt ribs, the fruit in the wine will be even more obvious. Woodstock - The Stocks Shiraz 2005, McLaren Vale, South Australia The McLaren Vale has a lot to offer: gentle rolling hills, a short 10-minute drive to the ocean and lots of delicious things to eat. And of course, the wines: this is Australia's centre for lush reds with velvety tannins, and this Woodstock is a great example of this kind of wine. Like many Aussie reds, it is a little on the oaky side for my taste but when you pair this with slightly blackened ribs, the ripe shiraz fruit taste comes to the forefront, leaving behind the taste of sweet oak. Serve the wine cool to the touch and it will give you the best result. Available for HK$358 from Kedington (tel: 2898 9323) Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006, Martinborough, New Zealand A number of winemakers have taken the simple but effective approach of adopting the name of the region where their vineyard is located for their label, and such producers include the Hanging Rock and Martinborough Vineyards. Martinborough wines first sold in 1978 and now, more than 40 years later, its name is associated with the small-scale production of world-class pinot noir. This wine goes nicely with ribs marinated in garlic, chilli, olive oil and salt. Available for HK$382 from Wine'n'Things (tel: 2873 5733) Mitchell Peppertree Shiraz 2005, Clare Valley, South Australia Of the three wines selected for today's column, this is by far the least woody. The fruit flavours from this Peppertree Shiraz are always bright and sparkly. There is plenty of fragrance to stimulate the nose and a bundle of good savoury fruit to seduce the palate. This wine is delicious when paired with Cajun spiced blackened ribs. Available for HK$166 from Kedington (tel: 2898 9323)