Chan Yan-tak

How did you get to where you are? 'I've been in the business for over 30 years. I started in the early 1970s at Tai Sam Yuen Restaurant [a Cantonese fine-dining eatery in Wan Chai, now closed]. In 1984, I joined Lai Ching Heen at the Regent Hotel [now the InterContinental], where I became head chef. I've been with Lung King Heen since the Four Seasons opened in Hong Kong [in 2005]. There is no set time frame for becoming a chef; it's all about self-motivation and opportunities.'

How has Cantonese fine dining changed over the years? 'Hong Kong is a different city from when I first started. In terms of customers, the inter-national traffic is much greater. [When it comes to Cantonese fare], the tastes of tourists and foreigners are almost as sophisticated as those of locals. It's no longer about sweet and sour pork or kung po chicken. Bird's nest soup and abalone dishes are popular across the board. In terms of industry changes, there are so many more restaurants operating now. A cook used to stay with the same kitchen for life, now they switch kitchens every three years or so for greater exposure.'

How do you rate the Michelin Guide? 'It has a western orientation; people use it as a reference not just for food recommendations but also for service and decor. After this year's results were announced, the inspectors who came for dinner told us they spent three years researching the city; they came 12 times just to Lung King Heen. While the evaluation for food might take up a higher percentage than anything else, the final score is an overall look.'

And your three stars? 'I don't see it as some-thing within my control; it's not something I asked for. My attitude is ping seung sum - take things with a calm heart. As a chef, there's nothing more important than keeping up with your kitchen. I have 25 cooks in the Lung King Heen kitchen; we also help out with banquets at the hotel. I've always tried to motivate my cooks, not pressure them. That's not going to change.'

What's the latest innovation on your menu? 'Besides the section of organic and vegetarian dishes, I've recently come up with an XO sauce for non-meat eaters who like a bit of spice in their food. It has all kinds of dried mushrooms and root vegetables for flavour.'