Salt and pepper milk fish is usually ordered as part of a meal, but should be eaten immediately, while it's hot and crisp. Its texture is difficult to describe politely - it's more slimy than milky, but soft and delicate. The best drink with this dish should respect its delicacy, but be mindful of its spice and short-lived crispiness. Mineral or fresh steamed beancurd-like aromas will highlight and define the combination. Vermentino di Maremma San Felice 2007, Tuscany, Italy For some time Italian winemakers were content to churn out neutral-tasting white wines. Thankfully, some producers have taken the lead in making not only better reds, but also better whites. San Felice is one of the oldest producers in Tuscany, and this Vermentino gives plenty of spice and apples, as the grape intended. It comes with a good whack of mineral lift that sits happily beside the texture of the fish. Available for HK$135 from Castello del Vino (tel: 28660577) Laurenz V Charming Gruener Veltliner 2005, Kamptal, Austria To say the Hong Kong wine industry is progressive is an understatement, but it has still taken more than 15 years for us to discover top German rieslings and, in particular, this completely delicious Austrian gruener veltliner. Still, it's better late than never. The Laurenz V is probably the first of its kind to land in Hong Kong and, given that it's available at a large chain, it should be highly visible throughout the territory. It is gently spiced and smells a little like white peaches with a sprinkle of white pepper. It's an oakless wine, with just fruit, fruit and more fruit. The mouthful is friendly and easy to understand. It's a perfect match with the milk fish. The spicy tones from the salt and pepper cooking method will bring out the wine's lively acidity and bring out its freshness. Available for HK$258 from Watson's Wine Cellar (tel: 25262832) Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand This is really one of the most spectacular sauvignons in the world - it's just that it doesn't taste terribly Kiwi. If you have the chance, taste it against a recent vintage of Domaine de Chevalier from Bordeaux and you will see the class of this wine. It's stunningly rich in mineral tones; the natural ferment is a bit funky but it makes it all the more interesting. It's a perfect match with milk fish. Available for HK$488 from Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 29761888)