Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking
By Marcella Hazan
Available from Paddyfield.com
Marcella Hazan is considered by many foodies to be the English-language authority on classic Italian cuisine. Note that I say 'classic': Hazan is uncompromising and believes that Italian cuisine has been watered down and bastardised by inept (or unqualified) chefs. Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking is a revised and updated version of two of Hazan's earlier works, The Classic Italian Cookbook and More Classic Italian Cooking, which are out of print (although fairly easy to find through resellers). Don't expect pretty pictures of what the finished dish should look like - the book has just a few line drawings, which often seem random, having nothing to do with the dish that shares the page. Hazan's instructions are succinct but sufficient for anyone who's fairly skilled in the kitchen; she also gives helpful hints on such things as steps that can be taken in advance and what type of pasta will best complement a sauce. She can be dismissive of other versions of certain dishes, commenting in her introduction to the Amatriciana sauce (tomatoes with pancetta and chilli pepper), 'Some cooks add white wine before putting in the toma-toes; I find the result too acidic but you may want to try it.'
