Perfect match
Flounder is a cousin to the Atlantic turbot, which is much larger and more robust in taste. Flounder fillets take hardly any time to cook and are delicious with saffron cream. The delectable, delicate fish needs to be nurtured by wine that is not too texturally driven. It should be a friendly wine with true aromatics and lots of substance. The best wine with this delicate dish should shy away from any oak influence. Minerality and direct, focused structure will give the fish and saffron a wonderfully tasty and playful platform.
Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Marlborough, New Zealand
The big news in the New Zealand wine industry is that winemaker Kevin Judd is leaving Cloudy Bay after nearly 30 vintages. He leaves behind some stunning creations, including this Te Koko, a Bordeaux-like sauvignon blanc. It's made in the simplest way, with very little intervention. The wine is about minerals and direction; it's agreeable in the same way as great white Bordeaux from the Pessac region. It's a perfect match with the flounder; the fish bones should be made into a stock for the saffron sauce base or to make a bowl of fish and ginger congee. Available for HK$488 from Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888)
Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling 2004, Alsace, France
This is a world-class, benchmark riesling that is made in small quantities. It's one of the rarest wines in Hong Kong. Vintages from the 1960s and 70s are still delicious, with no sign of fading, but when young, the wine is understated class. It's a perfect drink with flounder and saffron sauce (or on its own). The minerality and longevity of the wine brings out the sweet earthiness of both the fish and the spice. The gentle, fruity perfume is the perfect backdrop for this delicate combination. Available for HK$418 from Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108)
Abrate Roero Arneis 2007, Piedmont, Italy
The Abrate family retains full control of its vineyards, which they've had for several generations. This white wine is one of the family's flagships, along with a number of single-vineyard reds. The arneis grape is exclusive to the Piedmont hills and is lovely with flounder and saffron. The arneis has aromatics similar to viognier, but is far gentler and much less viscous. It is made without oak. The purity of the wine makes it the perfect match with the fish.
Available for HK$189 from Oliver's (tel: 2810 7710)
