Squid is a wonderfully versatile seafood - it's delicious when stir-fried, deep-fried, steamed and, of course, barbecued. It's the perfect platform for any bright, blond flavours such as ginger, lemongrass and saffron. When marinating squid for the barbecue, take care when adding salt, as most sea creatures are sufficiently salty. Also, don't use too much oil because it will make the barbecue flare up and turn the raw squid black. The best wine with barbecued squid should be fresh and direct. Structured wines with good backbone are highly desirable. Weingut Jurtschitsch Sonnhof Gruener Veltliner Dechant Alte 2007, Austria It's taken a while for the delicious gruener veltliner grape, which is rarely used outside Austria, to make it to Hong Kong. It can be sublime with 15 years of bottle age, but when young, it's frisky and welcoming. It has aromas of pears and the spice rack, including white pepper, and is always satisfying and giving. This particular bottle is a mouthful to pronounce, but it's the perfect match with barbecued squid marinated in kaffir lime juice and chopped leaves - and don't forget to add some chilli. Available for HK$203 from At Style International (tel: 6593 1859) Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc 2008, South Africa This wine is so delicious it might make you weep. Few countries or regions can produce tasty chenin blanc, but winemakers in South Africa are making some of the finest in the world. This Mulderbosch is elegant, with subtle yet clear aromas of tropical fruit and white chocolate. The signature chenin acidity gives this wine the perfect backbone to pair with barbecued squid marinated in green olive paste and garlic. The richness of the squid will layer with the deep fruity notes of the marinade. The wine and olive paste acidity partner together beautifully. Serve the wine only cool to the touch, with the squid over a salad of couscous and cucumber. Available for HK$105 from Altaya (tel: 2523 1945) Carrick Unravelled Pinot Noir 2006, Central Otago, New Zealand Carrick is one of the prettiest vineyards in the world and sits on top of a little hill overlooking a valley. Carrick wines are delicious and quite possibly too cheap for this amount of enjoyment. Although pinot noir is the star in Otago, try to hunt down some Carrick chardonnay; it's supple and very elegant. This Carrick Unravelled Pinot Noir is the perfect match for barbecued squid with lemon and black pepper. The lemon aromatics give the pairing a high note that is lively and fresh. The savoury black pepper notes link with the pinot's bright red fruit palate and integrate with its modest oak. Serve the squid and the wine with hot, garlic-buttered pasta. Available for HK$168 from Oliver's (tel: 2810 7710)
