What are the differences between diners in Korea, Tokyo and Hong Kong? 'In Korea, they don't like too much salt, they like spicy. In Japan, they like very tiny portions. Hong Kong is special - it's a blend. I like Hong Kong because people here look happy, they are laughing, they are expressing themselves, they like to play. Japanese people know my food very well. They know what they are going to get. In Japan, they are into the experience - which can be dangerous. There are Japanese who, when they come to Paris, they find it's like anywhere else in the world: there's violence and people are rude. They don't understand - they think Paris is only for lovers, they're there to see the Sacre-Coeur [Basilica], Place de la Concorde, Arc de Triomphe and they are shocked by reality. There's a specific hospital to receive some of these people [who break down with the shock]. The Chinese are not like that, they have no problem with reality.'
How do you adapt your cuisine to fit a location? 'Food is not a science, it's a sensation. When I arrive in a country, I get the feeling of the culture of the people then everything comes together. I make the restaurant a part of the hotel, not completely separate. I have respect for the Mandarin Oriental, the culture and history of the hotel, the people who work here who make it 'alive'. You want people to come here and have a good time. I am not a concept man, like [Joel] Robuchon. I play with my sensibilities, I try to understand what people want and also build a story with the staff. It's not a one-man project, you have to work with a lot of people and find the ground where everyone can work together. It's not only the food, it's also the people who are working on the floor. It's like a theatre; it's a show.'
How would you describe your cuisine? 'My food is creative but with respect to French cuisine. It's my story - I began to build it 30 years ago. I work with the same ingredients [as everyone else] - a piece of lamb, a carrot, some vegetables, then bring something of myself, my senses. It has to be tasty, intelligent and balanced but a surprise.'
Where do you eat when you come to Hong Kong? 'Last night, I ate Peking duck and some ham. I never eat outside [the hotel], I stay here. I have no time, I just work. When I come to Hong Kong, it's not to be a tourist.'
What do you cook for your children? 'When you cook for kids, like when we see kids in restaurants, the first thing is you must be quick, quick, quick because they don't like to wait. Cook quickly and try to respect their basic tastes. Try to give them something a little different but not too much. You must not be aggressive with children - they learn, they taste and day after day they discover something new. When I cook at home I'm trying to please the kids so it's not the same as what I cook at the restaurants. I usually cook them pasta or something simple.'