STARTING POINT I took over my father's business in 1978. At the time, everything was very precise, with tailored suits, single coloured shirts and conservative ties. I wanted to create shoes that were smart and casual. I combined leather shoes with a rubber sole. They were a development of the driving shoe, adapted for everyday use [and had the raised 'pebbles' that are now the Tod's trademark]. I was inspired by people like [US president] John F. Kennedy and [Italian industrialist] Gianni Agnelli. The original name of the company was JP Tod's and I got that out of the Boston telephone book. Americans always think we are an English company and vice versa. I dropped the initials because people thought that was a real person and they wanted to meet him.
ITALIAN SOLE Our roots are in Casette d'Ete, in the province of the Marche [halfway down the east coast of Italy]. My grandfather was a cobbler here and my father made shoes for large American department stores. My home is in Casette d'Ete and that's where I prefer to be [he lives in a renovated medieval nunnery on a hill above the town]. If I can, I start each day there taking my dogs for a walk. I have eight, lots of different breeds. I like to take my son, Filippo, he's 10. Many of the people who work for Tod's are the sons and daughters of people who worked for my father. The street address of the main Tod's factory is Via Filippo Della Valle, it was named after my grandfather. This is where I feel most comfortable. I prefer a simple life.
HANDS ON I review all the designs for all our bags and shoes. I want each one to reflect the Tod's philosophy, they must have the finest leather, exquisite craftsmanship and they have to represent something that lasts. Our customers do not chase a new bag every season but they want a product that makes them feel good, as if they are getting closer to their dreams when they buy it. This is why we have been so excited to work with [actor] Gwyneth Paltrow. She is elegant and graceful and has a decency, a quality, maybe a virtue that is precisely what I'm trying to instil in everything we make. We want to create products that are timeless and classic.
BEYOND THE LAW My father didn't want me to go into this business. I was sent to the university in Bologna to study law but I didn't graduate - although I did enjoy myself immensely. I always wanted to be in this business. I went to New York with a trunk full of shoes in 1976 and put on a presentation at the Hilton. I love New York. Whenever I go there I try to have a Caesar salad at the 21 Club and a burger at PJ Clarke's. In Manhattan, if you have a great idea you can do a deal in one day. Things move much more slowly in Italy.
EXTENDED FAMILY We have retained control of the company during all our growth. My younger brother [Andrea Della Valle] is vice-president and a key part of the company, my oldest son [Emanuele] and my cousins are involved, my wife helped design the factory and my father still rides around the factory on his bicycle. Every product we make is touched in some way by many members of my family.
FOOTBALL CRAZY Of course I love football. My team [he owns Fiorentina in Italy's Serie A], it's very interesting. It's a game. You go up and down. I go to games and I talk to the players. I always tell them to be brave, to play the game without fear.