Salted ma yau (threadfin) fish is intense and powerful, with a rich, deep ocean taste. Just a sliver will coat your mouth and stay on your breath all day. Pan-frying is the simplest way to prepare it, and the flavour is probably something only adults can enjoy. The best section of the fish is near the tail - close enough to the cavity to have some belly fat, making the flesh silky and not tough. Pan-frying makes the outside crisp and aromatic, which intensifies the flavour. There is a struggle between succulent ocean sweetness and saltiness - depending on what's on the palate before and after the fish. It needs a crisp wine with a strong acid backbone that leaves the palate refreshed.
Weingut Jurtschitsch Sonnhof Gruner Veltliner Dechant Alte 2007, Austria
Gruner veltliner is an indispensable aromatic grape variety when it comes to Cantonese food. This heady, spicy, crisp white is delicious on its own - it tastes a bit like riesling, sauvignon blanc and viognier all rolled into one. It's the perfect match with pan-fried salted ma yau fish. The wine's creamy taste supports the flaky richness of the fish, and the rich, fruity note is a good partner with the tan notes of the crispy skin. The combination only needs a big bowl of white rice. Available for HK$203 from At Style International (tel: 6593 1859)
Inniskillin Gold Oak Aged Ice Wine 2006, Canada
There are a few ways to make ice wine - all of which involve freezing the grapes, including in a domestic refrigerator. This Inniskillin is a leader in its category - a serious wine that's a perfect match with salted ma yau. The oak-aged ice wine links up nicely with the tan note of the fish. The salt (in the fish) and sugar (in the wine) compliment each other. The ice wine and salted fish combination is more powerful and complex than each on its own. Available for HK$650 from Sinolink (tel: 2408 9338)
Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc 2008, Stellenbosch, South Africa