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For the most part, soup plays a supporting role but there are some types substantial enough to be meals in themselves. These two filling recipes are polar opposites: the first is hearty but elegant; the second came about in a time of poverty but is just as delicious.

Seafood soup (pictured)

This recipe is similar to a bouillabaisse but it doesn't have the Mediterranean varieties of seafood that purists consider essential to an authentic French version. Make the dish with whatever varieties of fish and shellfish look best (the wet market is the most economical place to buy seafood). The recipe is based on one that appeared years ago in the San Francisco Chronicle.

800 grams fish fillets (such as red snapper, sole and mullet)

500 grams fresh large prawns, shelled and cleaned (leave the heads on, if desired)

500 grams fresh small clams or mussels

For the seafood stock:

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