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Susan Jung

For the most part, soup plays a supporting role but there are some types substantial enough to be meals in themselves. These  two filling recipes are polar opposites:  the first is hearty but elegant; the second  came about in a time of poverty but is just  as delicious. 
 Seafood soup (pictured) 
 This recipe is similar to a bouillabaisse  but it doesn't have the Mediterranean varieties of seafood that purists consider essential to an authentic French version. Make the dish with whatever varieties of  fish and shellfish look best (the wet market  is the most economical place to buy  seafood). The recipe is based on one  that appeared years ago in the San  Francisco Chronicle. 
 800 grams fish fillets (such as red snapper, sole and mullet)
 500 grams fresh large prawns, shelled and cleaned (leave the heads on, if desired)
 500 grams fresh small clams or mussels
 For the seafood stock:
 60ml olive oil
 150 grams celery, chopped
 250 grams onion, chopped
 200 grams carrot, chopped
 250 grams fennel bulb, chopped
 6 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
 The zest of ? an orange (remove the  zest with a vegetable peeler)
 2 bay leaves
 1kg fresh whole fish (such as carp, bream,  red mullet, eel and snapper), chopped into chunks, or use a mix of fish and shell- on shrimp
 2 tsp saffron threads
 250ml dry white wine
 125ml vermouth
 50 grams tomato paste
 4 sprigs fresh thyme
 Fine sea salt and freshly ground black  pepper, to taste
 For the rouille: 
 1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
 1 small potato, peeled
 ? tsp saffron threads, chopped, soaked in 15ml hot water then cooled to lukewarm
 ? tsp piment d'Espelette or cayenne, to taste
 4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed to a paste
 250ml olive oil
 For the croutons:
 1 long baguette, cut on the diagonal into  1cm slices
 Olive oil, as needed
 Extra virgin olive oil, for finishing the soup
  Heat the olive oil in a large pan then add the celery, onion, carrot, fennel, garlic, orange peel and bay leaves. Cook over a low heat, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender. Add the fish and saffron to the pan and cook over a low heat, stirring often, until the fish is cooked through. Stir in the wine, vermouth and tomato paste. Bring to the boil then simmer for a few minutes. Add the thyme and 2.5 litres of cold water. Bring to the simmer then lower the heat and cook, uncovered, for an hour. Strain the mixture through a large sieve into a clean pan. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Place the fish and vegetable solids into a food processor and process until finely chopped. Strain through the sieve into the pan containing the fish broth, pressing firmly to extract as much of the strong, thick, flavourful liquid as possible. 
To make the rouille, boil the potato until tender in the fish stock and let it cool to lukewarm. Mash the potato until smooth then whisk in the egg yolk, garlic, saffron threads and soaking liquid, a pinch of salt and the piment d'Espelette or cayenne. Whisk in the olive oil a few drops at a time. When the mixture is a smooth emulsion, start adding the olive oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. If the mixture gets too thick, add a little warm water. The mixture should be as thick as mayonnaise. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and piment d'Espelette or cayenne, if needed.
For the croutons, preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Lightly brush  both sides of the baguette slices with oil. Bake  until golden brown then turn them over and bake the other side. 
When ready to serve, bring the fish stock to a boil then lower the heat. Taste for seasoning and add salt (it might not need any because the seafood is salty) and pepper. Poach the seafood in the simmering broth: add the clams first, then the prawns and finally the fish fillets. Do not overcook the seafood. Ladle the broth and seafood into bowls then drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Spread the rouille on the toast and add a piece to each bowl. Serve the remaining rouille on the side.  
 Budae chigae  
 Many of my friends turn up their noses at this soup but I love it. Admittedly, it does sound pretty dreadful: it contains canned luncheon meat (such as Spam), hotdogs, ham and instant noodles; some versions include cheese and baked beans (which I omit). The  'army base stew' came about during the Korean war, when food was scarce. American army cooks used lots of canned and convenience products, so Koreans gave the ingredients a local flavour and developed this dish. 
This is a basic version: you can also add   ddeok (rice cakes),   mandu (Korean dumplings) and vegetables such as spring onions, enoki mushrooms and   negi (Japanese leeks); omit any meats you dislike (I often skip the canned meat); and substitute kimchee for  the fresh cabbage. 
  About 80 grams gochujang (Korean red  chilli paste)
 ? tsp Korean chilli powder, or to taste
 ? a large onion, sliced about 5mm thick
 2 large garlic cloves, sliced
 2 large red chillies, sliced
 1 small head (about 9cm long) Chinese cabbage, sliced about 1cm thick
 1 small can luncheon meat, sliced 5mm thick
 4-6 hotdogs, cut on the diagonal into  2cm pieces
 6 slices ham, cut in half
 1 or 2 packs  ramyun (Korean instant noodles), preferably the spicy version of the Nong  Shim brand
 Put all the ingredients except the ramyun in a shallow pan. Add 2 litres of water then place the pan over a high heat. Bring to the boil, cover the pan and simmer for about five minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the instant noodles (including one of the spice packs) and simmer until cooked.
Styling Corner Kitchen Cooking School



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