Fare European and Russian, with a focus on caviar. The menu has been reworked since the recession hit and many dishes are now more affordable.
Ambience Cool and sleek in white, black and aquamarine, with some seating in padded light blue booths and other tables open to the mall. Makes an ideal spot for an indulgent start to a day of designer shopping.
Cost HK$200-HK$1,500 for a la carte; a four-course set lunch, from 11am, is HK$290 with an extra HK$90 per spoon of caviar.
Who to bring A tai tai friend whose credit card hasn't already been cut up by her husband.
Turn-ons The caviar tasting assiette, a plate of three small mother-of-pearl spoons of caviar (beluga, oscietra tradition, royal baccari) resting on warm mini-blinis and served with creme fraiche, egg white and egg yolk strands, was a perfect way to get to know the different caviar. The caviar shot, a chilled potato soup topped with cream whipped to a foam and a dollop of imperial Baeri caviar, was a surprise, but it worked - the powdery texture and earthy flavour of the soup made a good contrast to the strong taste and slightly oily feel of the caviar. The assorted smoked salmon (wild Norwegian, Danish and Scottish) with two warm blinis was simple but comforting and surprisingly filling. The eggs benedict (previously HK$840 and now, with less caviar, HK$180) came with wild Danish salmon, two perfectly poached eggs, a rich and creamy Hollandaise sauce and a sprinkling of caviar, but the toasted bread became hard.
Turn-offs Even at peak times, the restaurant is quiet, but the new menu may help to change that.