1/F Lan Kwai Fong Hotel, 3 Kau U Fong, Central Tel: 3650 0066 Open: noon-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm Cuisine: Cantonese. Price: About HK$270 per person without drinks and before adding the service charge. Ambience: It's a small restaurant, seating only about 40 people in total, including in the private room. The simple d?cor is accented with red walls, Chinese paintings and carved wood panelling. Pros: The food - it's delicious and refined. Service is attentive. Cons: The main menu - which has pictures - is in English and Chinese, and many of the dishes are quite expensive. Another menu, which is written only in Chinese, has more enticing dishes and we ordered primarily from that list. Roasted supreme beef (HK$200, from the main menu) had meat that was excellent quality - very fatty and succulent - but other than that (and the dipping sauce of soy and wasabi), it wasn't much different from any other roast beef. Mustard green with Jinhua ham (HK$110) was overcooked so the too-soft vegetable lacked the bitterness we expected. Recommended dishes: Baby pigeon (HK$50) was flawless - the skin was crisp and the meat wonderfully juicy. Fish maw with tofu (HK$160, above) were delicate, perfectly seasoned oval fritters. When the waitress lifted the lid on the clay pot of fish head with ginger and green onion (HK$160), we were drawn in by the mouthwatering fragrance of rice wine and garlic. It was one of the best fish heads we've tasted, with lots of succulent meaty and gelatinous bits, as well as crunchy fins. Vermicelli with crab meat (HK$160) sat for a while before we were able to eat it so it wasn't at its best. It didn't have much crab but we liked the subtle flavour which we accented with a drizzle of the accompanying brown vinegar and XO sauce. What else? Don't mistake this hotel for a similarly named one - it's not the same as the Hotel LKF and it's not in Lan Kwai Fong (it's further west). The chef, Cheng Kam-fu, worked previously as a private chef so the intimacy of this restaurant works well for him.