French By Damien Pignolet Although Damien Pignolet isn't as well known outside Australia as chefs such as Neil Perry (of Rockpool fame), Kylie Kwong (Billy Kwong) and Tetsuya Wakuda (Tetsuya's), he's highly respected by his fellow professionals. Pignolet stays close to his French heritage (his family has been in Australia for four generations) in his cuisine (he's the executive chef of Bistro Moncur at the Woollahra Hotel in Sydney) and his book, French, which lists all the classics you'd expect such as vinaigrette, hollandaise and mayonnaise; starters of steak tartare and oeufs en gelee; and main courses of duck confit and escalopes of pork with Calvados and apples. He devotes a chapter to charcuterie, a subject many cookbook writers - who must have less faith in their readers' dedication (because it requires special techniques) - won't touch. He gives recipes for rillettes, terrines and parfaits. The design of French is user-friendly and Pignolet writes with great precision (in his recipe for tarte Tatin, he calls for Golden Delicious apples but 'not new season's as they are too wet').