The scallops we know as 'fanback' are called razor fish in some parts of the world. They got the name because the razor-sharp shells, which often protrude out of the mud, can seriously cut a predator - human or otherwise. They're sweet with a light texture but contain a lot of water so can shrink rapidly during cooking.
For this reason, it's a good idea to have something that can soak up the scallop juice. In Chinese restaurants, rice vermicelli does the trick; and the scallops are usually also steamed with chopped garlic to give the combination richness and extended flavour.
Craggy Range Avery Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Marlborough, New Zealand
The winemakers at Craggy Range can do no wrong. Their wines are pure and diverse, and they've made it a philosophy to constantly over-deliver for the category and price. They have two sauvignon blancs, one from Martinborough and this one, which is a little racier and more penetrating than the fruit-rich Martinborough. This is the perfect match with steamed fanback scallops with garlic and vermicelli - the freshness of the wine matches the freshness of the dish. The penetrating zingy quality of the wine carries the scallops to a long and stimulating finish. Of course, you can drink this sauvignon blanc on its own, but it's a little like a rock band without a drummer. Available for HK$195 from Montrose (tel: 2555 8877) Chateau du Beaucastel Blanc 2006, Rhone Valley, France The young Pierre Perrin was in Hong Kong recently and a few of us were treated to a lovely tasting at Classified on Hollywood Road. (where we also ate the best pickled herring I've had since living in Hamburg). The Perrin family has a large stable of wines, predominantly from the southern Rhone. This Chateau du Beaucastel blanc is both savoury and minerally and is full of life in terms of ageing. It's a perfect match with fanback scallops. Available for HK$660 from Altaya (tel: 2523 1945)
Dom Perignon Oenotheque 1975, Champagne, France Except for the price and rarity, this wine is far from exclusive - even a novice can appreciate a treasure like this. Its structure is a good match with steamed scallops, but it can be enjoyed on its own with anyone you want to impress. Available for HK$9,500 from Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888)
