Camolei is betting that Italian cuisine will continue to enjoy popularity despite the economic slump, featuring comfort food items that he describes as 'dishes mama makes for dinner'.

The fresh generation of Italian establishments aren't just warming over the same formula as their predecessors. Drawing Room chef Roland Schuller, who was previously at Aspasia restaurant at the Luxe Manor in Tsim Sha Tsui, says he uses traditional Italian techniques but has access to a range of international products, including lobsters from South Australia and kingfish from Japan.

'Hong Kong has become heaven for chefs searching for top ingredients,' says Bombana, attributing that to the absence of import taxes. 'In the past, people sourced ingredients primarily from Italy because they had to. But Italian cuisine doesn't necessarily taste the best when using only Italian produce. If the produce is better elsewhere, you should use that to create the best tastes possible.'

Camolei believes Hongkongers have developed more sophisticated tastes when it comes to authentic Italian fare. 'There were so many twists and turns to Italian food that sometimes the true classic ways were lost,' he says.

'For example, carbonara pasta should have pieces of guanciale [cured pork cheek], not bits of pancetta in it. And tiramisu shouldn't have any cream, just eggs, sugar and mascarpone cheese. It is a challenge to change these misconceptions, but things are changing for the better.

'Even the Italian chef has changed. Twenty years ago, he was the guy who was drunk all the time screaming in the back kitchen. Now you get young chefs who know how to use all the modern equipment and Google for new ideas,' Camolei says.

At Brivo, manager Ganesh Gurung took an unconventional approach by adding Mexican dishes to the menu. 'Italian is well-loved by diners, but on the flip side there is so much competition, especially where we are [in SoHo],' he says. 'We had to do something to make ourselves distinct.'

Gurung says customers have welcomed the Mexican dishes, even though most still opt for Italian food.

Concept Creations operations manager Viviano Romito sticks to a more purist approach at Mrs Jones. 'I chose things that were lighter and healthy, with the idea that Italian food is fast becoming something Hongkongers can eat every day, not just for special occasions,' he says. One of his favourite dishes is the panzanella salad, which he enjoyed as a boy when his dad would tear up bread and put the pieces into the bowl to soak up the vinaigrette.

Romito says the simple, two-page menu makes deciding what to order a breeze for guests. For larger events, Romito will often ask diners to leave the decision up to him, saying, 'That's what I love to do the most - pick out the food for people and take it off their hands, so they can just sit back and eat.'

Schuller has also simplified the ordering process at his restaurant at the Jia Hotel in Causeway Bay, offering just two options - a four-course tasting and a six-course tasting. 'When you don't have a long ? la carte menu, you can buy ingredients fresh every day and not have to worry about too much inventory or loss of freshness,' he says. Schuller updates his menu every few days.

Food aside, the welcoming atmosphere is a signature of Italian establishments and an added draw for diners on the lookout for a relaxing meal. 'Italian dining isn't just about what's on the plate, but the vibe,' says Romito. 'There is no turned-up nose here. It's home.'

Likewise, Camolei explains that the word osteria means 'tavern' and was considered a 'home away from home' for ancient Romans.

'You don't see white tablecloths here. But you do see brick walls and high bar seats, and people wearing sneakers,' Camolei says of the restaurant at the Holiday Inn in Tsim Sha Tsui.

The 40-seat Drawing Room is equally cosy. Schuller says it tends to attract larger groups, with most parties of six to eight people. 'In [other] restaurants, it's more typical to mostly have tables of two or four. But Italian food, maybe because it's hearty and people can share, makes it more suitable for larger groups.'

Diners have little to complain about their bills at Italian outlets. Both tasting menus at the Drawing Room come in at under HK$1,000, with the four-course menu at just HK$580 and the six-course costing HK$880, despite offering fine dining dishes such as a roasted quail with foie gras, lobster with pata negra ham, and a trio of Wagyu short rib, tenderloin and tongue.

All pasta dishes at Mrs Jones are priced under HK$100, and the three-course set lunch at HK$98 is a steal.

Brivo has cut prices by 5 to 10 per cent since March to attract customers watching their budgets, and also offers 16 wines by the glass.

Romito, who says Italian food pairs exceptionally well with wine, has a simple wine list with bottles at reasonable prices of HK$275 to HK$475. With more than 300 labels in their reserve, prices start at just HK$220 at the Drawing Room, where there are plans in the works to open up a wine bar in the restaurant.

'People get their money's worth at Italian places. They can enjoy a nice long dinner with big portions and some wine,' Camolei says. 'It's not the cheapest option, but it's among the best value.'

The new Italian contingent has high hopes for a warm reception by Hongkongers, after reporting steady growth in business since opening.

'In my 17 years of cooking here, I have learned that Hongkongers know how to eat, and if you give them quality on the plate, they will come back for it,' says Bombana.

'This is true not just for Italian food. I hope and believe that one day Hong Kong will become the gastronomic capital of the world.'