Everyone knows that Taipei is the capital of Taiwan - but fewer travellers are aware that Tainan, on the southwest coast, is not only the oldest metropolis on the island but was also once the seat of government.
While Taipei is the commercial and political capital, Tainan - which was first settled in 1590 - embraces culture with alacrity, showcasing a fort constructed by Dutch colonisers, some of the very first proper streets laid out on the island, and a wealth of Matsu temples. However, the city is by no means a mere historical fossil, and a thriving economy has given rise to a swathe of glitzy shopping malls, hip bars and smart hotels.
Perhaps the most exclusive hotel in Taiwan occupies a unique position at Sun Moon Lake, which sits more or less in the centre of the island surrounded by spectacular forested hills.
The Lalu resort - an array of private villas, infinity pools and gourmet dining - blends perfectly into the landscape. While its room rates guarantee it an exclusive clientele, the area around is open to hikers, anglers, and mountain bikers, whatever their net worth.
The nearby Formosan Aboriginal Cultural Village provides a well-interpreted glimpse of Taiwan's native tribes, as well as all the fun of the fair in an adjacent amusement park.
South of Sun Moon Lake, there is more of nature's bounty in store at the Alishan National Scenic Area, which stretches over 37,000 hectares rising to heights of 2,600 metres. It is not simply train buffs who appreciate the railway here, which in the course of just under four hours chugs up through tropical, sub-tropical, temperate and alpine zones.
The area is sparsely populated, but hosts small, thriving communities such as Ruili, which has long been a centre for cultivating tea, and is now taking on new life as a base for trekkers. While popular all year round, the crowds come in spring to admire Alishan's cherry blossoms, while autumn heralds the best sunrises and sunsets.