3/F Century Square, 1-13 D'Aguilar Street, Central Tel: 2537 9393 Open: 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-10.30pm Cuisine: Japanese. Price: About HK$500 each, without drinks and before adding the service charge. Ambience: The lift doors open to show part of the restaurant's impressive display of sake. At the entrance is a large L-shaped sushi bar (right) behind which stand several chefs - which gives an indication of the restaurant's speciality. When I booked the table, the receptionist asked if we wanted to sit at the sushi bar - I should have said yes. Instead, we had a spacious table in one of the large rooms, which had only two other groups of diners on the night we visited. It's a peaceful setting - the crowds of Lan Kwai Fong seem far away. Pros: Pristine, beautiful raw fish. Cons: The service was uncertain at first, until the helpful female manager took charge. The grilled silver cod with saikyou (miso, HK$150) was moist but paled in comparison to the raw fish. Recommended dishes: Steamed egg custard with sea urchin (HK$90) was a warm, comforting dish. The cup holding the delicate custard was packed full of ingredients: seafood, a piece of chicken and a gingko nut, then topped with several small 'tongues' of sea urchin. The assorted special deluxe sashimi selection (above) sounded expensive at HK$900 but it was impressive because of the variety of fish and seafood, the quality, quantity and presentation. We were familiar with most of the seafood: rich, creamy sea urchin, two cuts of hamachi (yellowtail), thick slices of wonderfully fatty and tender toro, sweet shrimp, crisp-tender red ark shell clam and fettucine-shaped strands of sticky cuttlefish. The knowledgeable manager said the other selections on the platter included geoduck and tai (snapper). Soft shell crab roll (HK$100) was generously portioned, and the sushi rice was the perfect texture: packed just firmly enough so it held its shape. What else? We searched the dinner menu for beef dishes, but there are none (there's one offering on the set lunch menu). The manager said they would refine the menu according to customer's requests in about a month. When we're feeling extravagant, we'll be back to sit at the sushi counter and ask the chef for omakase.