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Susan Jung

Shop 2-3, Imperial Terrace, 356 Queen's Road West, Sai Ying Pun 
Tel: 2540 0880 
Open: noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight 
Cuisine: Japanese. 
Price: About HK$350 without drinks and before adding the service charge. 
Ambience: Despite the 'modern Tokyo' part of the name, Honjin is actually quite traditional, both in its cuisine and decor. An L-shaped sushi bar dominates the small space.    
Pros: The menu isn't as overwhelming as at some Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong, and it's quite clear what this place specialises in - sushi, sashimi and robatayaki. Service is friendly  and the food arrives at a good pace.   
Cons: The Honjin assorted sashimi platter (HK$330), served with fresh wasabi, was mixed in terms of quality: flavourless maguro and salmon were side-by-side with far more interesting offerings such as horse mackerel, halibut, head-on amaebi and a small blob of blue-green crab roe, which tasted far better than it looked.  
Recommended dishes: We were glad we took the waitress' advice and ordered the special Japanese uni nigiri (HK$55 each). Pristine, creamy sea urchin 'tongues' were piled high on delicately seasoned sushi rice. We ordered only two robatayaki dishes but wished we  had space in our stomachs for more. The goose liver (HK$98) was a thick slab, crusty on the outside and pink and soft within, while tender, salty ox tongue (HK$25) had a hint of spice. Assorted tempura (HK$108) was a large portion: three crisp sweet prawns (above) and vegetables such as kabocha squash, bell pepper and mushroom in a slightly thick but well-fried batter. We ended the meal with a lovely bowl of inaniwa udon in tai fish broth (HK$98); the noodles were soft and slippery and the broth had a subtle but distinct fishy flavour. 
What else? A glass-fronted walk-in cooler displays the selection of fine sake and expensive grape wines.



Honjin Modern Tokyo Dining