Why would you use Japanese scallops to make quenelles? Because they're large and supremely tasty. If you need another reason, larger scallops have longer fibres and, in a quenelle mixture, that gives extra textural support that would otherwise be handed over to the cream and egg. If that's not enough for you, their coral is huge by scallop standards, and that coral can be made into a rich sauce. Deliberately burning the butter for the coral sauce gives it a distinctive nutty taste that supports the coral sweetness well. Try to make larger quenelles rather than the textbook soup spoon size - they take longer to cook but also stay warm longer. The best wine to serve with quenelles of Japanese scallops with burnt coral butter needs to have a savoury tang - a flavour that won't get lost in the scallop freshness and succulence.
Yalumba Y Series Viognier 2008, South Australia
Viognier is one of those grapes that goes well with just about any food. The only drawback is that it's generally expensive - but not this Yalumba. It's outstandingly delicious and simply unbeatable value. It's also a perfect match with scallop quenelles. The rich sweetness of the ripe and fruity viognier sits happily next to the succulence of the scallops, and the wine's perfume also lifts the burnt butter to another level. The most significant contribution of the wine to the scallop is on the palate - its creaminess and focused direction takes the scallop back to the sea, adding many high tones of bright blonde flavours.
Available for HK$110 from Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108)
Salon 1997, Champagne, France
I wonder how many wine lovers have tasted Salon. It's made in minuscule quantities. Add to this the fact that Salon lovers don't usually buy just a single bottle - they stock up on as many as they can get whenever the wine is released - which means that very few bottles are available. It's a blanc de blancs, made entirely from chardonnay grapes. Its subtlety underlines the scallops' voluminous richness, and the wine's yeasty tones from its long ageing process link up seamlessly with the nutty butter in the sauce, adding volume. The bubbles pick up the lightness of the mousse, giving it a textural boost.