What inspired you to leave the advertising world and enter the wine trade? 'Passion, without any doubt. My taste for wine came relatively late, while working at an advertising agency in Paris. I had had to choose what I wanted to do for the rest of my life at 18 years old, when my palate was not ready yet to appreciate wine. As my family is not involved in the wine business, I didn't think about oenology. I did five years of business school, then worked for six years in advertising. I was given my first bottle of champagne at Christmas, by my company. The next day I bought another and another and soon found myself quitting the agency and studying for a diploma in winemaking. My passion is fuelled by the desire to understand the complex relationship between the soil, the vines and the human being, and the specifics of one wine compared to another. There is an enthusiasm in the people involved in the wine industry; they share a common passion. It's led to many unforgettable moments in my life.'
What's the biggest challenge facing Krug in terms of ensuring quality? 'The time scale to produce Krug is very different [to other champagnes]. Time doesn't have the same meaning at Krug; our challenges are spread over decades. Some of the wines from the next harvest will be enjoyed, if they become reserve wines, in 20 years and now we are creating the blends for the bottles which will be available in 2015, 2020 or later, depending on the cuvees. Probably the first thing I learned when joining the house was patience.'
What do you cook when you're at home? 'I have two rules: simplicity and individuality. I love to select fresh, flavourful products. Then, I like to cook them very simply. And finally, I like to cook things separately, in order to respect what each has to express on the plate. What amuses me is to try different blends directly on my fork. I can achieve a better complexity in that way, rather than if I had cooked [everything] all together.' Do you drink anything other than champagne? 'I cannot imagine a winemaker not enjoying wine in general, in moderation of course. I like making discoveries - a little producer, atypical in its vineyard, for instance - as much as rediscovering the classics. The experience of a wine depends on the people you are sharing the glass with, your mood, what you did just before and what you have planned just after. Even with the same wine, producer and vintage, you may have two different experiences; that's fascinating and very exciting.'
What are your plans for the future? 'I think I have one of the best jobs in the world. I cannot consider changing that situation. I was asked recently if I was frustrated at not being able to bring my 'personal touch' to the Krug wines. The greatest challenge, as a winemaker, is to achieve the same level of excellence, year after year. It's much easier to arrive somewhere and change everything but what about giving the same emotion to people each time they open a bottle of Krug? I am not ready to swap my place for anything in the world.'
Do you miss living in Paris? 'Not at all. I lived for seven years in Paris and I really appreciated it, as a student, and before being married and having children. Living in Champagne is a great compromise; I have the space, the proximity of everything, fewer traffic jams, a better quality of life, and yet, I am not so far from Paris. My only wish would be to have mountains and sea closer to the Champagne region.'