Boston Restaurant G/F 3 Luard Rd Wan Chai Tel: 2527 7440 Vibe: Traditional local 'Western' restaurant. The lower level is a bakery and reception while the upper floor is the dining area. Servers wear shirts and dress pants like 'traditional' Western waiters, but the efficient service is more like that of a cha chaan teng. Grub: Serves 'colonial' Hong Kong dishes like steak on a sizzling pan and mixed grills. Each set comes with a dinner roll, soup, main dish accompanied by rice, spaghetti or French fries, and tea or coffee. A very local - and very retro - interpretation of Western food. Who to bring: Parties of up to four. The restaurant has only square tables, making it difficult to talk if you're in a larger group. It's a great place for lunch or early dinner if you're seeing an exhibition at the HKCEC or a show at the nearby Academy for Performing Arts or the Arts Centre. Alternatively, bring out-of-town guests for a cheesy taste of what Hong Kong Western food used to be like. What's hot: The signature dish, beef brochette flamb?, is unmissable. Steak is grilled on a big, sword-like skewer, and then set alight with a little Chinese wine before being served on a sizzling platter in front of the customer. The thick, juicy steak is pre-cooked to order - the flamb?ing has little effect on the doneness. What's not: Try to avoid going after 8pm. The servers seem ready to leave work, and the restaurant feels severely understaffed. Staff lack sincerity and professionalism at this hour, just 'doing their job' instead of offering the usual, helpful service. The Borscht came chilled which was particularly unpleasant. The decor hasn't been updated for a while - more cha chaan teng than restaurant - so it's not especially comfortable. Cost: About HK$100 to HK$150 per person with a sizzling set.