Much of the tuna we get nowadays is farmed in deep waters by big fleets that stay at sea for weeks at a time. The most highly prized cut is toro, or fatty tuna belly; the fat in this part insulates the tuna's organs from the cold waters while the rest of the muscles work hard at propelling the fish in its constant hunt for food. For my tastes, however, the sweetest, most succulent part of the fish is actually the transparent pink flesh on either side of the upside-down 'T' the length of the tuna's skeleton. There are many versions of tuna tartare using different parts of the fish and different seasonings. When it's made by a good chef, the seasoning should be mild to complement rather than disguise the tuna. It should also be texture driven - some egg white and good olive oil will heighten the softness of the fish. The best drink with tuna tartare needs to lift and integrate with the dish. The high notes shouldn't be stratospheric, but close to the fullness of the fish; and the texture can come either from alcohol glycerol creaminess or the sensation of freshness from the natural acidity. Ardbeg 10 Years Old, Islay, Scotland There's a myth that whisky, like red wine, is better the older it is. If you don't blindly follow this silliness, you'll save money and at the same time broaden your tastes. This delicious Ardbeg is a perfect match with tuna tartare, especially if it has a little Japanese influence, with flavours of sesame, bonito flakes and shreds of seaweed. Serve the Ardbeg straight from the fridge, and even mix a teaspoon of it into the tuna tartare for a seamless match. The sea tang of this Islay classic brings the freshness of the tuna to the forefront, giving it a savoury twist. Available for HK$600 from Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1888) Pernod Pastis, France Those living in the Mediterranean have known for a long time that seafood and the sexy, caressing, spicy notes of anise are an unbeatable match. Pastis and other types of anise-flavoured liquors are used in all types of seafood stews. Pernod with tuna tartare is another perfect match. Try the liquor straight up before adding ice or water to turn the clear liquid cloudy; pure Pernod is a sublime but short-lived sensation. Add a touch of chilli to the tuna and it will link up nicely with the aromatics of the spicy Pernod. Available for HK$185 from Oliver's (tel: 2810 7710) Kilikanoon Morts Block Riesling 2004, Clare Valley, South Australia This is perhaps the more conventional and predictable pairing with tuna tartare, but I'm recommending it because it works. Go easy on the seasoning for the tuna - just add some good spicy olive oil, finely diced black olive and a mashed anchovy fillet. The Kilikanoon riesling will give the pairing the perfect backbone for all the flavours to shine and play happily. Available for HK$153 from Altaya (tel: 2523 1945)
