Rhubarb looks like stalks of celery that have been dipped in red or pink dye. The resemblance ends there: the flavour isn't nearly as mild as that of celery - it's mouth-puckeringly tart and, unlike celery, it doesn't maintain its shape and texture when cooked. The vegetable (although it's prepared as a fruit) is usually cooked with sugar to balance its astringency.
The rhubarb plant contains a potentially fatal poison that is concentrated in the leaves. The poison is also found in the stalks but there is not enough of it for it to be considered dangerous. The vegetable has been used in homeopathic medicine for its laxative effects and to cleanse toxins from the blood.
Stalks of raw rhubarb range from pale pink-tinged green to deep red but the colour fades with cooking. No matter what the shade, look for stalks that are firm, unshrivelled and slightly waxy looking.
Rhubarb is often cooked with strawberries or raspberries, which complement the taste and enhance the colour. For a nutritious, 'cleansing' breakfast, make a compote by cooking rhubarb (cut into 2cm pieces) with strawberries or raspberries, a little salt and granulated sugar to taste. Simmer until the ingredients are tender, then spoon over unsweetened yogurt and top with fibre- rich muesli. This versatile rhubarb and berry compote can be chilled and served with ice cream; spread over a partially baked tart shell, topped with a lattice crust then baked until the filling is bubbling; or made into trifle by layering the compote in parfait glasses with homemade pastry cream and chunks of pound cake that have been doused with sherry.
Rhubarb also goes well with meat dishes such as roast pork and grilled duck breast. Mince shallots and garlic and cook over a low heat with a little oil until soft. Add chopped rhubarb, a few whole cloves, salt, some brown sugar, candied ginger and a splash of vinegar. Simmer until the rhubarb is soft then serve warm or cold.