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Pass the parsley

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Too often, parsley is seen as a garnish rather than something to be savoured on its own merits.

There are two types that are popular: flat leaf, also called Italian parsley, and one with tightly curled leaves (fresh coriander, sometimes called Chinese parsley, is something else entirely). Both have a relatively mild taste that complements a wide variety of food. The flavour is strongest in the roots and stalks - although because these parts can be tough, most people throw them away.

When buying parsley, choose bunches that are bright green, without wilted or yellowing leaves. To store either type of the herb, wrap the stalks in a damp paper towel then cover with a plastic bag and keep in the fridge (or it can be kept with the stems in a glass of water).

Italian parsley is usually preferred to the curly-leaf because of its stronger flavour, although they can be substituted for each other if one is not available. Dried parsley is practically tasteless and shouldn't be used in place of the fresh herb.

Some dishes incorporate such a large quantity of parsley it can be considered a vegetable, rather than a herb. For tabbouleh, pour boiling water over dried couscous (at a ratio of 1:1), stir in salt and chopped fresh garlic then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the couscous absorb the water. After about five minutes, stir the couscous with a fork then add a large quantity of chopped fresh parsley (Italian or curly-leaf), some fresh lemon juice and grated zest, extra virgin olive oil and chopped shallots. Serve as an accompaniment to roast lamb or chicken.

The best falafel I've ever tasted had so much chopped parsley the fried balls were light and delicate, rather than stodgy. Soak dried chick- peas overnight in plenty of water, then drain. Finely grind the chickpeas in a food processor then mix with lots of chopped parsley, some minced garlic, chopped shallots or spring onions, ground cumin and cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in a little baking powder and check the consistency by squeezing some of the mixture into a ball - if it seems too loose, stir in enough flour to bind it. Chill the mixture then shape it into slightly flattened balls and fry in hot oil. Serve with tahini, chopped tomato and yogurt mixed with diced cucumber and chopped mint.

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